Measurements for location of rubber hold downs?

[911scfanatic]

Installing a set in the front and rear. Does someone have the measurements as to where then are typically located from edges of hood and decklid? TIA.

[rick2]

Subscribed. Looking at photos they are mounted all over the place. I hope someone can help. I,m doing front and rear as well.

[CurtEgerer]

Rick's correct - these things were mounted all over the place. Somebody will probably come up with a document to prove me wrong, but I doubt there is an 'official' location. These are the factory ST fotos. I would scale them and call it good enough. I guess I never noticed, but they use the 'long' rubber straps in front. They usually come in long, medium and short and most cars I've seen use the medium.

Note: the holddowns don't even look to be mounted straight. The factory was concerned with holding the hood down, not what it looked like.

[911scfanatic]

The factory was concerned with holding the hood down, not what it looked like.

The horror of it.

[Cornpanzer]

Step away from the drill!!!

[rick2]

Was Hans drunk???? The drivers looks straight on the ST pics.
Is it stupid to use the hold downs only and not mount the factory release? I've had a hood (old truck) come loose at speed and I had to toss those shorts. It's scary how long it takes to restart your heart roll down the window and stick your head out before hitting something.

[nickd]

did anyone have more details - just been asked the same question and came up short of the dimensions....

[911rips]

I've had my hood tie downs sitting on the workbench for 5 weeks trying to figure out where to mount them. The above pictures give me great hope. No way can I screw it up any worse than the factory did. Now, where did I hide my drill?

[John Z Goriup]

Rick's correct - these things were mounted all over the place. Somebody will probably come up with a document to prove me wrong, but I doubt there is an 'official' location. These are the factory ST fotos. I would scale them and call it good enough. I guess I never noticed, but they use the 'long' rubber straps in front. They usually come in long, medium and short and most cars I've seen use the medium.

Note: the holddowns don't even look to be mounted straight. The factory was concerned with holding the hood down, not what it looked like.

Not at all true that hold-downs were randomly placed "all over the place". Sound engineering principles and and effective, clean craftmanship always played an important role at Porsche. The way in which they engineered things and the gibblets they chose to perform certain functions may have been quite ordinary, in the spirit of "holding the hood down, not worrying what it looked like"......for the simple reason that on factory "mules " and prototypes anything went as long as it got the job done, and to prove the theory and methodology, BUT then when the actual cars in their final version were introduced at venues like the Geneva or Frankfurt shows, whether mass produced or all-out race cars, they invariably looked professionally turned out. Enough editorializing.

In these matters I like to defer to Dr. Konradsheim & Gruber, authors of the Carrera RS bible. Their research was meticulous and they had a lot of assistance from the factory. You'll also see the see a lot of the same results in the book "Porsche 911 in Racing".

All the photos in that book of cars that had hood / engine lid hold-downs show these things in the same place: if one extends the crease lines at the center of the front trunk lid to the front edge of that panel, that's where all the factory hold-downs are mounted *. That places the drilled holes for the brackets at approx. 19" apart when measured center-to-center. Same distance for the rear. Find the center of the license plate panel, measure approx. 9-1/2" to either side and you'll have your matching mounting locations.

* the exception were some of the "R" models, which, due to having a featherlight fiberglass hood installed didn't require two hold-downs and had a centrally mounted single unit holding its hood in place.

Several notes:

1. "God is in the details" is becoming one of the most over-worked cliches out there.....but you can't argue the truth of it. Therefore I submit that one should really take the last important step and not just purchase any old hold-downs, but rather seek out the factory originals for a few more $$$. Model GHE # 602 - 0024. Attention to detail goes a long way. Available from Kundensport, Camarillo, CA, Tel: 805. 445. 9146, e-mail: kundensport@live.com. See attached photo

2. When you receive these, carefully contour the lid-mounted bracket to the curve of the front edge of the lid and, use a thin rubber backing to prevent paint marring, and use pop-rivets to mount to the lid, since there is no access from inside of lid ( and no sheet-metal screws, please)

3. On the bumper mounted bracket, also use rubber material ( I like to use bicycle inner tube rubber) between bracket and bumper and use stainless steel screws with Nylocks since here you do have access to underside of bumper.

PS: As an aside, if you extend the imaginary straight line from the front of lid where hood hold-downs are mounted, to rear of lid at cowl, that's also where the factory and the factory supported privateers mounted their hood mounted lights......centered on the "line" when viewed from the front.
__________________
John Z. Goriup

[jcge]

Great post with supporting material John - if only all questions were answered this way...