starter problems (won't turn over)...stranded 200 mi from home

[911scfanatic]

Ok, I'm not stranded technically, since I met my wife up north. But, I'm still hosed.

I drove 200 miles straight through. Went to move the car and the starter makes a single click...and nothing. Power appears o.k otherwise. Had my family push the car and then I engaged the clutch to try to start it that way, and still no joy. Thought it the starter might have a dead spot, but apparently not.

Anyway, I need to diagnose this correctly so when I make the trip back up and can repair it on the first try. I'd like to get the starter out and bring it home to have it tested, but I don't think we have a single metric tool. (BTW, is a '68 starter connected with a barrel nut on the back side?)

My guess is the solenoid. Can that be removed separately? My recollection from my '72 is that it's all one integrated unit. Expert help is appreciated.

[911quest]

I'd first make sure the battery is fully charged if it is then the starter is most likely the problem. Was the car still warm when you tried to restart it? Starter problems seem to rear there ugly heads after a long drive.

[210bhp]

Single click?

Check your battery terminals are tight and the earth strap is tight both at the battery and underneath at the gearbox/body strap. Sounds like a bad contact somewhere. Then check the contact to the solenoid.

Regards
Mike

[karlusmagnus]

Bill, I'm no expert, so I cannot help. But I toast to your cars good health in solidarity.
Hopefully it is a bad contact that is easily cleared up.

[911scfanatic]

Thanks, Karl.
I will check 1) battery charge, and 2) contacts.

I tried starting within an hour of arriving (the valve covers were still to hot to touch), about 5-6 hours after arrival, and then about half dozen times in between. Always same result. The starter makes a single click every time I try to start it. Would that indicate that I do indeed have power at the starter, but the solenoid is not engaging, or no? I guess I don't know enough about the sequence of events during starting.

We don't have internet or phone at our cabin, so I have to run out to check the Board. I'll check in after lunch and report what I find.

[boxster03]

sounds like solenoid to me.

[edmayo]

Hi Bill, the usual problem after a long drive is heat soak in the starter increases resistance and then if the voltage to the solenoid is marginal, say 11.9 volts instead of 12.2, then that's not quite enough to engage the solenoid which is a movable magnetic switch that at the same time moves the gear into the flywheel, and closes a internal circuit that sends battery power to the starter motor brushes. After 5-6 hours heat soak is not the problem. The click you hear is the solenoid engaging, but the starter is not able to use the power to turn the engine. If you had jack stands available to you there (which I doubt) you could jack up the car and using either a short jumper wire, or even a screwdriver blade, touch the battery cable terminal of the solenoid to the #50 term. (the one with the yellow wire) which will supply full battery voltage to the starter. If it is going to work at all that will get it. Sometimes a sharp rap with a hammer while an assistant holds the ign. in the crank position will get it to work. Short version is you probably need a new starter, there are two versions, a .75 H.P. (Sr17 X) and a 1.5 H.P. (R.O.W. and cold climate, SR68X). I suggest the 1.5 version as it is much less susceptible to heat problems. That's what I have on my cars.

[X-Faktory]

Had my family push the car and then I engaged the clutch to try to start it that way, and still no joy. Thought it the starter might have a dead spot, but apparently not.

It's not completely clear. Were you not able to get your car started by getting the car rolling and popping the clutch? Your symptoms do sound like a failed starter or solenoid, but if that is all it is you should be able to get it running by popping the clutch.

[911scfanatic]

Battery? Lights, fuel pump, etc. worked and were not dim, which is why I thought power was o.k. Guess I might be wrong. What's new.

While I was cleaning the contacts as everyone suggested above, I hooked the battery up to a charger. Put the battery back in and it started right up. Left the battery on a trickle charger all night, and it started again the next morning. Drove about 130 miles back home today with the wife and kids and stopped for lunch on the way home...same thing when I went to start the car. Hooked jumper cables up and it cranked and started. Home now and the same deal.

So, now what? Is it just a bad battery? History is unknown on the battery, but I do know that the guy I bought it from had run the battery down a few times, and I did once. That's when I traced a slow drain to one of the circuits. Voltage regulator? Alternator?

One other thing. I haven't driven the car in the dark in a few months. Friday night, only when I got out of the city lights, I noticed the alternator light was barely lit. It was almost imperceptible. Once I got into traffic lights again, I really couldn't see it. What, if anything, does that mean?

EDIT: battery voltage reads 12.6v in car, car not running. Won't turn over. Did not yet clean contacts at starter itself yet FWIW. 12.6v is a good battery reading if I understand correctly, isn't it? Also, I have a battery load tester, and when tested, the battery is "in the green." So, battery is looking good to me. Trickle charger puts battery voltage to a bit over 13.1v so far, which gets the car started. Is the trickle charger and jump starts getting the starter "over the hump" like Ed has suggested?

[edmayo]

Hi Bill, got your P.M. Now that you're home and have tools again I,d suggest hooking your voltmeter to your battery, raise engine revs to about 2,000 and see what the battery charging voltage is. It should be in the 13.4 to 13.8 range give or take a little. Assuming that checks out, jack up car and check voltage at the battery cable to the starter, should be virtually no voltage drop from what ever battery voltage is. Now remove the yellow wire from the solenoid, hook your voltmeter between it and ground, have your assistant turn ignition to start, and see what voltage is. This will likely be a few tenths less than battery voltage due to the less direct circuit. You would like to see no less than 12 v. maybe 11.9. Any less than that and you're on the ragged edge of what might work. Judging by the fact that it will crank if the battery is fully topped up, I'd still say you have either a voltage drop in the circuit, a weak starter or a combination of both. Let me know what you find.