Weber Intake Manifold

[Kilgore Trout]

Helloooo,

I have stopped randomly turning my mixture screws and will try and sort these things out correctly. I have rebuild kits and printed adjusting instructions from the forums. Also have a Haynes "Techbook Weber Carburetor Manual". I am hoping to NOT to completely take them apart. Maybe clean the outside, take the tops off, inspect, clean jets(?), inspect, clean.....Or should I just completly (carfully) take them apart?

My main question concerns the intakes. There are remnants of some coating on the insides. Is this typcal? It has been coming off in bubbles and flakes and probably not making a good fuel mixture. I will be removing these and removing what is left of this "coating" , right?

Thanks,
Dan

[Paul Schooley]

Having that stuff end up in the engine can't be a good thing. I think mine were coated as well on the inside. My thinking is that the coating must have had something to do with the flow and I would refinish them with as close a coating as can be had. There's more than a few experts around on this subject that can clarify what it is and where to get it.

Having offered up that thought it has me wondering if polishing the inner chambers of the manifold would be a better solution. Used to work good on Hawgs back in the days.

[66S]

I think the coating is teflon, meant to move any droplets quicker. I dont think it will do any real damage when it flakes off. I wouldnt paint the inside, maybe polish them.

[MarkS]

Your having problems and you if you don't "completly take them apart" my .02 your more than likely wasting your time. So question is do ya feel lucky, well do ya?

[304065]

No such thing as teflon coating on the manifolds-- in those days the weber manifolds were coated with what I think is DuPont IMRON-- a VERY hard, durable, thick gloss black coating. You should see that the flanges are hollow and that there are reinforcing ribs cast beween the top of the flanges and the runners. The insides are bare magnesium, which oxidizes to a dull gray over time, I think what you have there is black spray paint that somebody put on the manifolds. It needs to come off. The good news is the bore on the later manifolds is straight, so an appropriately sized NON-FERROUS brush will work.

[Kilgore Trout]

Here is some progress. Disassemble Carbs, (only the right so far) per MarkS. That really does seem like the only thing to do. I spent about 6 hrs getting ready and then to fully take it apart while having a few adult beverages. Sheesh, it went pretty good though, I think there were two sets of screws,(jets, something) where I had to secure (lightly) the carb in the vise and use a cresant wrench on the screwdriver. If anyone sees something out of the ordinary or someone has any tips on getting this done successfully, that would be great. Thanks,
Dan

[MarkS]

Good job Dan, you deserve another adult beverage. I suggest heading to the parts store and getting 'Berryman' carb cleaner, You want the one that comes in a 'kit' with basket. It will dissolve varnish in side bodies and small parts and will also make them look like new. Last kit I purchased was from Manny, Moe and Jacks. I purchased the gallon size ended up getting another so I could lay carb bodies in one of wifes baking dishes. A tooth brush will also speed things along.

[Kilgore Trout]

Here I am again. Is there a way to rename the original post? This has turned into a carb rebuild thread.

Finished assembling the right carb and I am not happy with the top gasket. The tan one will NOT go over the studs. The black one is stretched some, covering the edge of the outside throats and generally not very centered. Its like the image was distorted, the center is fine, the outsides are out.

Should I be dissapointed? Or are they always like this? Options?

Also, does this gasket get any "dressing", permatex, light oil, gas? My book did not mention anything.

Thanks again

[edmayo]

It's not uncommon for the gasket to shrink. Soak it in hot water, that will expand it. NO sealant of any kind is to be used on the gasket. Be sure to safety wire all the appropriate fasteners. You will need a float gauge to properly set float levels when you're done. This must not be overlooked, it will affect the level of fuel in the emulsion tubes, which will greatly affect the tuning and running.

[Kilgore Trout]

Thanks. I do have a float level gauge. Per your warning, I will use it. I also went through the procedure in the Haynes for setting the floats on assembly. It may be interesting to see how that ends up with the gauge. Wired the appropriate fasteners, check.

This short break gave me a chance to straighten up some. Now on to the other carb. Maybe I better mow some grass first though....