915 in a 901 car

[lkadams]

When swapping out the 901 for a 915 transmission, does one need the 915 shift rod and shifter assembly, or will the 901 one work?

[911scfanatic]

I was wondering about this for my '68. I thought the hump between the rear seats in a SWB couldn't accommodate a 915 w/o some modification.

[preS]

I am not an expert ..

I am pretty sure you (can) use the 901 shift rod.

You most likely need the 915 tower because of the dog leg pattern on a 901. If you could make the 901 work you should alter something for the reverse lock which is #1 on a 915.

Just my thoughts.

RIchard

[mike curnow]

You do need to modify the rear seat area.

[911scfanatic]

Good to know! It's a straight swap, other than I will need to use the 915 trans mount with the 915, correct?

[Mudi]

what about vice versa, putting a 915 shift tower in a 901 trans car?? How do I modify the shift pattern in the 915 shift tower..

Sorry for the hi-jack Bill. Bob

[gled49]

the shift rods are different, the 901 being a little longer. the adjustment at the shift coupler will have to be as short as possible. mine worked ok but if something is wrong the cross gate adjustment would cause issues. test it first before completing instalation. also in my case a 901 accelerator bellcrank at the trans had better alignment than the 915

[jpnovak]

You need the 915 shifter to mate with the 915 box. I know some have used The 901 shift rod but in reality it will be so long that you might force the shift lever into a more rearward postion causing a shift into second difficult. The shift lever will hit the shift housing and not pull the shift fork completely into place.

The rod simply slides out of the tunnel when you have it all disconnected. Just make sure to remove the shift ball cup bushing holder from the rod with the allen cap set screw.

The tunnel modification is easy. The tunnel will need to be bumped out a bit to provide clearance for the ear of the nosecone flange. The simple thing to do is pull the nose cone from the 915 and mount it to the cross member. The offer it into place and start the two large fixing bolts. You will quickly see where the nose-cone meets the tunnel. To bumps with a hammer will move the sheet metal. about 8mm is all that is needed for clearance. you will not see this inside the car under the carpet and underpadding.

You might also have to relocate the two charcoal canister lines depending on year of the chassis.

Don't forget you will also need a new clutch cable, correct clutch and possibly a new flywheel if you are mating this to an early engine. You will also need to make sure that the output flange matches your current CV system. The early cars with nadella style shafts will have a 108mm, 4bolt 2 pin CV arrangment. Many later 915s (75 and up?) have a 100mm 4 bolt CV with smaller axle diameters. In this case you will have to swap the stub axles int eh trailing arms.

I did all of this swap to my 71ST replica many years ago. I now put a type 911 back in. Love the shorter gears. I would only swap a 915 if it was needed to support more power.

[lkadams]

Good to know! It's a straight swap, other than I will need to use the 915 trans mount with the 915, correct?

I'm guessing having just gone out to the garage to put the 901 trans mount on the 915, and it not fitting, that the 915 trans mount is needed crap - one more piece I gotta get. All this because I bought an 911 engine with 915 trans to swap into my 912 and I don't have a 901 flywheel to bolt up to the existing trans - lotta fiddling and farting around, and trying to come by pieces that aren't exactly common around here.

[tfiv]

Why get rid of the 901?