Marelli to Bosche Distributor

[Kilgore Trout]

Well, I just came in from the garage after destroying my Marelli rotor. I was going through the carb adjustment procedure and it was going good, not perfect, but not bad. I decided to start over as one air correction valve wasn't doing much and the RPM'S were hanging and not coming down to idle very good. I started suspecting my distributor and wiggled the cap some. I got away with that once but finally the roter caught the cap. Yea, thats right, you heard right. Anyone here want to admit to something like that?

So, I just read this post:
http://www.early911sregistry.org/for...ad.php?t=28939
and see EA911's post of the dist numbers. I did a search on distributors. At Stoddards swap meet most everyone said to "get a bosch"

I am now going to try and "get a bosch". I'm thinking it would be nice to be able to get NEW points, cond, cap, and roter.

Is there any way this could be made simple by finding out the correct Bosch that went in my 69 T sportomatic, when the Marelli was not installed? My Marelli is mechanical advance. Will I have any luck finding a mechancal advance Bosche for my car? I'm just trying to get her going, stock, nothing fancy.

I would like to place a wanted ad, but I would like to narrow my request down to what I need?

edit: oh yea, no e in Bosch

Thanks,
Dan

[super9064]

I have a extra used Marelli rotor for a 71T I assume that will fit. Its yours gratis, if it will help you get back on the road.

[lkadams]

I'm sort of in the same boat. I have a 69E motor that has been swapped over to Webers, still with a Marelli distributor, and know I'll have to switch to a Bosch if I ever want to do a tune up (ha!) so I'm in for info too!

[Kilgore Trout]

Thanks for the offer Rob. Believe it or not I superglued the pieces, dumb maybe, (yes actually)but it's running. The right thing to do is find a Bosch. I only want to finish adjusting the carbs. I am back here to search for getting a 900 idle. It will run slower and faster, but not 900. I may be be compounding problems at this point. Anyhow...

I checked the PET, courtesy of the Porsche site. Those part numbers from EA911 look on the money. It looks like the Merilli's is what they put on my car. I would think I want the Bosch they put on the L or the E in 69. I have been seeing many posts on "recurving" distributors.

I am wondering if that (recurving) will need to be done on a dist from an E or L to run on a T, or if I can just drop it in? More research needed I know.

Thanks again guys. I will keep the rotor offer in mind.
Dan

[Neunelfer]

I went Bosch.

Be careful on "re-curving". I had mine supposedly re-curved by a guy Bruce A. recommended for "re-curving". It came back rebuild but not recurved. I took it to Ed Fall here in Sandy and he put it on his machine and verified that it wasn't re-curved. He also mentiond that re-curving is difficult if not impossible. You need to have all of the cams available to do so and... nobody has the cams. I went back to the guy who built it and confronted him with the re-curving "story" and he hymed and hawed a bit and offered to build a 2.7 dizzy as needed (body needed to be machined etc.). Then he wanted all sorts of info I couldn't provide and it's been sitting. Still not all that pleased. Still don't have the proper dizzy for my HC 2.5.

I hate to see others go down the same path.

I'll have a perfect 01 available if I can get this 2.7 working.

[EA911]

Hi Dan - I posted on the other thread about swapping dizzy. The list I posted came from my mechanic and then someone on Pelican translated the porsche part numbers to Bosch numbers. I'm not sure if you need to recurve an E or L to put into a T.

[Fishcop]

Guys, pretty sure the 'original' 69t Bosch distributer doesn't exist... they were all Marelli. Any correct sized Bosch (E or S) is going to be hard to get and quite expensive (and you'd still want to regraph)

I took the advice of John Walker and took a relatively inexpensive 2.7 dizzy and had it machined to match the shaft diameter and profile of the earlier engine case (using the Marelli).

In regard to 'remapping' or 'regraphing' a distributor, the top operators can remap properly. The latest computerized systems can be programmed to load a distributor shaft and springs to match appropriate cams/timing/fuels.

The 2.7 distributor does have a vacuum retard unit to be removed, a blanking plate goes over the hole created.

The whole exercise works out a fair bit cheaper than using an original early distributor.

Cheers

[super9064]

Hey Dan, tried to respond to your recent email but it bounced back.

Sure I can still send you an extra rotor, happy to help, send me the shipping info.
If you want to keep the original set up, I have a distributor complete with another spare rotor, and a bunch of NIB points and condensers.
I switched to a Bosch not because it was worn out, but the car had been converted to E specs, so I replaced it with A "E" distributor. No end shaft play, fine working order. It would be a great spare,
How about $150 for every thing?, or you can still have the spare rotor gratis. Let me know.

[Kilgore Trout]

Rob,
Great to hear! I think I better have some spares! Do you have cap with that too? A pic of your dist might be good to see. From what I have seen so far, I would say your offer would be perfect. It may be a while before I switch to a Bosch.

I will send another email and check my settings later today. Please hang onto your parts a little longer, we shall make a deal.

EDIT: Sorry but what is NIB? It looks like there are new Marelli points and cond available?
EDIT: Maybe "New In Box"?
Thanks!
Dan

[karlusmagnus]

Rob,


EDIT: Sorry but what is NIB? It looks like there are new Marelli points and cond available?
EDIT: Maybe "New In Box"?
Thanks!
Dan

Yes, Dan ... New In Box, is correct.