'68 Door Lock Broken/Junk/Etc.

[68911USA]

Ahh...crap. My ignition key does not work the door locks (thanks, previous owner), so tonight I thought I'd just disassemble everything and attempt to re-key the lock cylinder like I'd seen in a couple of DIY books I have. Bad idea.

First, I now know why my drivers door handle rattles when I pull on it, because the stud nearest the push button was sheared off. Nice.

Second, I began disassembling the obvious pieces of the handle to extract the lock cylinder. Hmm...big C clip, okay. Springy thing. another sort of bigger C clip retainer on the end...hmm.

Now I am left with a naked lock cylinder with no apparent way to get the tumblers out or disassemble it any further. What the heck am I missing here? Also, the little square area on the end of the cylinder is completely mangled, like someone tried to take it apart once before with locking pliers or something. The small screw still goes in and out okay, but it only has 3 sides to the square left, a mess.

What do I need to do to fix this mess I have created? I will also need to address the broken stud on the handle itself.

At least I got the door panel off without destroying it. That would have been unforgiveable!

[BBausser]

The lock tumbler should just slide out now that you have it apart. Any auto locksmith should be able to key it to fit your ignition key in five minutes or less. I have used a local guy and he charges me $10 a lock. Other than difficulty in getting to, removing the door handle is relatively easy. If a stud is broken it becomes problematic though in getting it back on. Look for one on Ebay.

Bill

[68911USA]

After soaking the lock cylinder in penetrating oil, I was able to get it apart. You're right, it slid out with some persuasion. Guess what?! The key isn't wrong at all, it's just that so much crud was jamming the lock up it wouldn't move! It's all cleaned up and working smoothly now, I'm really happy about this! The previous owner must have just assumed he needed a different key for the doors, never realizing they just needed serious cleaning and lubrication. I will do the passenger door tomorrow. From the rattle on that handle, I have a feeling there will be a One Stud Wonder over there too...thanks for the tip, Bill- it was a great help tonight.

[raspy2point2]

only use WD40 or graphite to lube locks

[BBausser]

I say only use graphite. Use a compressor with a needle nozzle to insure all the crap is out of there and real dry then a dusting of graphite and you should be good to go.

[68911USA]

Well, this little project worked out great. Now I have both door locks working smoothly, which makes me feel better. While I had the door panels off, I cleaned the insides of the doors, lubricated all the window mechanisms, resealed the weather barrier, and tightened up my door pockets so they fit flush against the armrests again. I also found a date written on the back of the door panels, which is just kind of neat. I also "fixed" my slightly saggy drivers seat, by cutting and inserting a couple of wood blocks in between the metal seat bottom and the springs- much better support, and took all of five minutes. Now I've got a more comfortable angle to rest my elbow on the window, and I don't have the metal bar on the rear of the seat resting against my tail bone. I was also able to make some little rubber gaskets to fit between the door handles and the body of the car using some rubber material I had- no more rattle from the door handles, even though there is still only one stud on each side. I guess I'll keep an eye on eBay for some better handles!

[gan911s]

I have a handle with studs intact that were part of an assortment of "Porsche Stuff" I picked up in Charlotte a few years ago. Part # 531/061/062.00. Not concours condition with some minor pitting. Send me pm if you want it.

George Nolder

[tull]

had the same problem
just drilled out old stud cut head off same size bolt and jb weld
worked like a charm

[Bobs 67S]

Before you get everything all buttoned up look at the chromed zink (pot metal) exposed cylinder that the key tumbler sets into. It is the part that plunges into the handle when you press with your thumb.

Look at the cylinder and into the handle. It rides on four little ridges. After the chrome wares off the pot metal will oxidize and build up in the grooves. It will stick and soon you will break off a key locking the door. Bent over a lot of keys before I found the crud was the problem. Dis-assemble and grease every couple of years.

Of if you have the parts replated be sure to allow for the extra chrome build up to get a proper fit.

Good job on getting it to work.

[304065]

Bob,

Thanks for the note about how to disassemble the door locks. In my desire to not break anything, I wasn't pushing hard enough on the lock button. As you say, once the slotted countersunk screw is removed, the washer and e-clip and spring come off and all you have to do is push the button toward the handle and it comes out. Inside the handle is the gasket, I was able to save these.

So when they are rechromed, what do you do with the tumblers? You can see that my lock face needs to be chromed, but I wonder how they avoid destroying the brass cylinder? Any special instructions? Or does this come apart further?