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Thread: I need ONE flywheel bolt....

  1. #1

    I need ONE flywheel bolt....

    Hey all! Just about done putting my 2.2 back together. Took the pressure plate off today to make sure the disc is good, and of course one of the flywheel bolt heads was stripped... Its the 12 point head, but I guess any flywheel bolt will do (?).

    I need one shipped to me, and would appreciate it if I could buy one of yours laying around your garage!

    Let me know, and I can send cash or paypal. I was hoping to get the engine back in this weekend, but we will see if the bolt gets here.... lol

    Thanks so much!!!
    Bill

  2. #2
    I know I have some, not sure which ones, so I'll dig them out later tonight.. Bob
    Bob Petitt
    1967 911S Coupe 307653S, my barn find - 55,000 miles Looking for engine #961269 and trans 901/02 #104337
    1971 911T Coupe 9111120264, my first 911 back in my garage
    1972 BMW 2002, my first car - 350,000 miles and counting
    1972 911T Coupe 9112100970, Sporto, parted it out..
    1983 BMW 320i, my everyday car - 138,000 miles and gutless
    2005 Subaru Outback, the daily driver - boring
    2006 Volvo XC90,

    Registry Membership #202

  3. #3
    Restoration newbie.
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    San Francisco
    Posts
    1,484
    This is supposed to be one of the 'use once' parts, that said I have
    heard of plenty of people reusing them. If you want to be really
    safe order 6 new ones. Pelican will probably have it out to you
    by the weekend.

    andy
    67S in pieces
    EarlyS: 1358
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  4. #4

    Bolt Use

    You can torque them 3 times with no worries, its not that the bolt gets weak or stretches, its that the "teeth" for the allen get weak and you will strip the bolt head out which is a major problem.
    What you do need to watch out for is the bolt length, there are a few differences and you might get a bolt that is slightly longer that bottoms in the crank and then comes loose.
    Best bet is to measure the distance from the mating surface to the end of the bolt. If I have one I will send it to you. Also, for a 911 flywheel I have a procedure that has worked for a long time if you're interested.
    Clean everything and install all the bolts dry by hand until they are snug. Rotate the engine to make sure the flywheel is flush mounted, then remove each bolt one at a time to put red loktite on it. Reinstall and add 10% to the torque figure, go to the next bolt across the crank until done. Rotate it again to make sure its still straight with no "wobbles." Use the flywheel locking tool, not a screwdriver on the studs, especially in a mag case.
    Cole Scrogham
    Porsche Restoration
    911, 912, 911R, RS, RSR, IROC

  5. #5
    Torque settings from bolt handbooks are based on tensile stress approaching the yield strength of the material to get full bolt gripping force. Once you exceed yield, the bolt deforms and weakens. With safety factors in place, I would say that 99% of time you will be ok if reassembly is accurate and clean.

    With that said, the manufacture of components may chose a lesser torque value for ease of assembly and reuse of bolts. I would assume that Porsche will be conservative on a flywheel and maximize the gripping force due to the high inertia value.

    Keep in mind that dirty threads, lubricated threads, and clean dry threads will all have their own torque settings. If you re-use, make sure that the bolts are dry and clean, unless specified otherwise by Porsche.

    Side note: Using torque wrenches, your bolt preload accuracy can be off by as much as 25% (Machinery's Handbook 25 p.1402). If you have confidence that Porsche's the bolts did not yield, then they should be good for at least 1 more go.
    Olin - Member #1375
    ░▒▓█▀▄▀▄▀▄█▓▒░
    1972 911T

    Original
    -117 Light Yellow -15x6 Fuchs (9120/M400) -S Appearance (M470) -5 Speed Transmission (9590)

    Options added
    -Houndstooth Sport Seats (M409) -Rear sway bar (9228)
    -H4's -BTB Fog Lts (M429) -Amber TTG Driving Lts (9420/M432)
    -380mm Steering Wheel -Becker Mexico -Roof Mounted Luggage/Ski Rack (9503)
    -A/C (M559) -Rear Fog Lt (M571) -Rear Wiper (9290) -Wheel Trim (M426) -Footrest (9563)

  6. #6

    what I have

    I have 1 new in the bag PN 999.067.007.02 and five "used" that were just put on but not torqued.. PM me if you want one or all, i can overnight fairly cheap to Parker.. Bob
    Bob Petitt
    1967 911S Coupe 307653S, my barn find - 55,000 miles Looking for engine #961269 and trans 901/02 #104337
    1971 911T Coupe 9111120264, my first 911 back in my garage
    1972 BMW 2002, my first car - 350,000 miles and counting
    1972 911T Coupe 9112100970, Sporto, parted it out..
    1983 BMW 320i, my everyday car - 138,000 miles and gutless
    2005 Subaru Outback, the daily driver - boring
    2006 Volvo XC90,

    Registry Membership #202

  7. #7
    Buy one new from a dealer in a Porsche bag.

    It is not worth the risk of the flywheel coming loose or that bolt coming loose.

    I think flywheel bolts are torque to yield, which means they are preloaded on initial installation beyond the point where they deform and stretch, and won't go back.

    At least that's what they felt like on installation.
    1966 911 #304065 Irischgruen

  8. #8

    Got the bolts

    Thanks guys! I think my title may have been a bit misleading. I removed just the pressure plate FROM the flywheel. The flywheel is NOT coming off the engine this time around. So, one of the 9 bolts that hold the pressure plate on was stripped (the head), and I got a few new ones from a fellow forum poster.

    Thanks so much!
    Bill

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