901 shifting issue

[356robo]

Suddenly, when I shift from 1st to 2nd, I'm occasionally get reverse. OUCH!!! WHAT AN UGLY SOUND. What should I look for in adjustment, lockout springs, etc?

Thanks in advance,

Rob

[sithot]

Open the transmission shifter coupling cover (rear).

To adjust loosen the coupling.

Check your bushings.

A wise man told me that he's been known to use a semi-flat black paint to shoot the coupling area so that when it is removed he can easily see where it goes when things are put back together. Alternatively, you can use a punch (spring loaded ones are great) to make marks for original alignment. If everything is good skip to "ADJUSTMENT".

If your bushings are bad they can be easily replaced. It's not a tough job and to be honest a Stomkski Racing, WEVO, or whoever you choose for a new coupling will be money well spent. I've often found that a phone call and credit card are much easier and a time saver.
Put your old coupling on the shelf and step up to a modern design that is slick as a whistle.

If you go that far you may as well do your shifter ball cup and shift rod bushing. In for a penny, in for a pound, I say.The shift rod bushings are pretty much all the same. Some are white, some are black. They are all harder than original by a large margin. Take the entire shifter out of the car.
You will need 13mm wrench and 10mm wrenches. (M8 M6) You will also need an 8mm wrench (12 point box works great) to remove the coupling bolt and the shifter ball coupling bolt too.

Once you've made all these improvements you'll need to adjust everything.

ADJUSTMENT:

YMMV but this is how I did it based on reading and field testing .
Put the lever in the 4th-5th plane against the stop with the coupling attached and loose. Hold it there. Another person will make this easier. Perhaps you can teach your dog or cat a new trick.

Looking at the back of the car turn the shift coupling (IN NEUTRAL) clockwise until it stops.
Manuals describe this as "left stop" -direction of travel of the vehicle. I like the clockwise facing the rear of the car method for a description. The other is as clear as mud.

There will not be a lot of movement. Now, tighten the coupling clamp.

Test it. If it needs a smidgen of adjustment it will likely be that the shifter needs to move a little to the center of the car (looking forward, bring the shifter a degree or two to the left).

Good luck!

Tom

[911quest]

Also if what Tom said doesn't do the trick for you check the guide plate on the shifter itself they become very worn over the years and can cause what your dealing with.

[W6CZ]

Also if what Tom said doesn't do the trick for you check the guide plate on the shifter itself they become very worn over the years and can cause what your dealing with.

A.K.A. Reverse Lockout plate. That fixed this problem for me. Some also add additional springs.

[Aldo]

I just replaced my shifter ball cup bushing (old one wasn't bad)
and shift rod bushing ( old one in pieces) today. Easy 30 minute
job and it's not necessary to remove seats, shift knob or boot.
I just pulled up the carpet over the tunnel on the driver side, unfastened
the shift plate bolts and layed the whole unit to the side.
It was pretty easy this way. I had already replaced/adjusted
the shift coupler recently and with the new bushings today it
feels like new- or at least how I imagine it would have been
like 41 years ago

[dave29]

I did the same ouch many times. Went to a Wevo.....problem solved. Positive shift and no worries.
Jim

[911pcars]

If period-correctness is not an obsession, I'd suggest replacing it with a 915 shift lever housing. Much better.

Sherwood

[Homemade 911]

works pretty well.

I installed one in my vintage race 911 - huge difference! Also very cheap insurance when you think about those (all too common) blown shifts anywhere close to redline, with a stock 901 linkage. Been there, done that, got the bill...

With a WEVO, it's been my experience you have to really ham-hand it to hoon a shift...

The WEVO "Classic" model with a factory shift knob and rubber boot makes for a very clean, factory look. And yes , you'll need a 915 housing to make it work.

I imagine a WEVO would work wonders for street driving (I've never had occasion to try a WEVO on the street...)

Just a data point - hope it helps...

r/Thom

I did the same ouch many times. Went to a Wevo.....problem solved. Positive shift and no worries.
Jim

[911pcars]

works pretty well.

I installed one in my vintage race 911 - huge difference! Also very cheap insurance when you think about those (all too common) blown shifts anywhere close to redline, with a stock 901 linkage. Been there, done that, got the bill...

With a WEVO, it's been my experience you have to really ham-hand it to hoon a shift...

The WEVO "Classic" model with a factory shift knob and rubber boot makes for a very clean, factory look. And yes , you'll need a 915 housing to make it work.

I imagine a WEVO would work wonders for street driving (I've never had occasion to try a WEVO on the street...)

Just a data point - hope it helps...

r/Thom

Hey Thom,
I was attempting to apply a subtle hint to go in another direction. It didn't work. Too subtle.

Sherwood
www.seinesystems.com

[Cliff]

If period-correctness is not an obsession, I'd suggest replacing it with a 915 shift lever housing. Much better.

Sherwood

Are you talking about 73 & later 915? Also ,I have heard that there is a lock out for Reverse on these ;is it on the transmission or the gear shift lever assemmbly it`s self..I have a 72 and reverse does get in the `way`sometimes and is annoying and embarassing too! Cliff