I'm wondering if anyone has a lead on what options exist for sprucing up the front chassis ID plate. Not looking to fake anything, but mine is pretty scruffy, and the car is hoped to be just about perfect otherwise when it's done. Thanks, Bill Morris
Bill Morris
Bill,
after drilling out the rivets and removing the original from the car I cleaned it with an old toothbrush dipped in laquer thinner. Even that rudimentary first step was a notable improvement. Then I took it to a friends house who has a sandblasting cabinet , but it is filled with the finest sand which has been used a long time and is no longer very aggressive. That's really important because you do not want to texture the plate, you just want a uniform surface finish that does not impart its own character. Next I experimented on a couple of old junk ID plates I had laying with various abrasives until I liked the result, and that occured when I gently rubbed the plate with # 0000 steelwool. Do not use sandpaper or a Scotch-Brite pad since you will remove plate material and flatten the letters. Use only straight left to right, right to left strokes with the plate on a flat, hard surface until you get exactly the look you desire.
After that, I think using a fairly fine, long, flat new file to make sure the edges are straight with uniform, neat & matching corners adds greatly to the crispness and new appearance.
The toughest part will be straightening the half-round bead that surrounds the plate like a picture frame if it is damaged. For that, use a piece of round soft wire, (soft wire so you can bend it for the corners) the diameter of which matches the inside diameter of the bead and gently tap with a small hammer until you have restored the bead as best you can. Be very careful & work slowly & methodically, this material is extremely soft and thin and mars very easily. You'll never get a kink out. The corners may require filing and shaping of the wire..... Patience!
Alum. ACE hardware rivets finish the job.
Photo of my restored per-above, original plate after I finished with it, attached.
Good Luck,
JZG
Before it became Ruprecht, my Porsche was a '70 911 T
Paying member No. 895 since 2006
" slavish adherence to originality wasn't for me, because the car wasn't as good as it could be."
Rob Dickinson's response when asked what motivated him to build Singers
Thank you. Bill M
Bill Morris
nice job john!
bob moglia
'72 E sunroof coupe
If using media blast turn regulator down to aroud 20- PSI.
Early 911S member #166
I have no problem with the theory that all men are created equal.
But after that moment you are on your own and nobody owes you a damn thing.
Very important & useful suggestion. Sorry I neglected to mention it. In fact, to be double safe, if I were to do this again, I would use crushed walnut shell and not use any mineral product at all.Originally Posted by MarkS
Thank you very much, Mark.
JZG
Before it became Ruprecht, my Porsche was a '70 911 T
Paying member No. 895 since 2006
" slavish adherence to originality wasn't for me, because the car wasn't as good as it could be."
Rob Dickinson's response when asked what motivated him to build Singers
Soda Blast, it won't affect the plating
http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-o.../soda_blaster/
Tony
Threadjack:
Thank you for that tip! Would that set up work with other media also? (not on carbs)
Mike
Mike,
Can't see why not.
I've got a dedicated media blaster, but i can't run Soda through it.
If you are going to utilize this for anything, please use a good quality respirator and a full face shied, as it will go everywhere.
Tony
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