Early Door Lock Mechanism differences

[EsGeht]

I broke the driver's door lock mechanism on my '72 coupe and bought a replacement from a dismantler. What was sent was clearly different and does not work due to the shape of the locking piece, what I will call the "rabbit ears" I believe what was sent is a lock from an earlier car which uses a push button door handle and has a different locking method. The date on my original is 12 71, and the date on the replacement is 8 3 67. Does anyone with very early car knowledge agree, is this a very early push button handle lock mechanism? And how do I know which later model lock mechanism will work on my '72? Anything from '69 on? The pics show the critical differences -different shape and bend angle of the "rabbit ears" and "post and circlip" inside door handle and lock actuator rod attachment method instead of plastic retainer method.

[Mr9146]

The '67 latch uses C-clips and rods (notice the pins w/grooves).

Your latch used plastic clips and hook rods.

You can use the '67 latch if you feel like backdating the rest of the hardware. Otherwise, go back to the junk yard and get a 1970 or later door latch (stay away from the power lock latches, though).

I think the year spread is everything from 1970-1985, if I remember correctly.

[jameshtaylor]

Use the online PET (mentioned not five threads away) to do a bit of research on the lock part numbers; this will tell you exactly what part number available in which years you need/can use.

[EsGeht]

Thanks again, James. I got the part from EASY and they are sending me another, but even talking to them seemed to muddy the water. They thought there were only two versions, basically, the early kind with pegs and circlips to attach the pull rods, and the later with plastic clips to hold the elbow shaped ends of the release rods. However, just looking at PET shows a multitude of revised parts, and which ones will work and which won't isn't clear. The biggest issue is the cut-out shape of the "rabbit ears" , as locking the latch moves that cutout into a position where the trigger pin from the later door handle "misses" and therefore won't open a locked door.
I've got 911.531.053.00,02,04, (70-73)
911.531.053.06 (74-77)
and 964.531.054.00 (83 and on) etc.etc
The parts book mentions non-auto lock and autolock to add to the mess.
I can find no part number in PET for the latch dated 3 8 67 as PET doesn't go back past 70 (at least the PET on Porsche's website) Even the shop manual circa 1970 mentions the difference between latch/lock mechanisms and shows the different way the push type handle meets and pushes against the "rabbit ears". I just can't get a handle on which of all the subsequent lock mechanism numbers will work with my '72. I hope EASY sends me one that works!

[72tii]

PET does go all the way back to the SWB cars. On the drop down list here, just choose 911/912 for the '65-'69 cars.

[EsGeht]

Cool! Yet more confusing. For 65-69 cars the following part numbers apply, left and right, apparently with chassis number limits:
901.531.053.21, 22, 23, 24. Maybe to correspond with trigger-type door handle?

[jameshtaylor]

well if you ever get to the bottom of this, you'll forever be the list's expert on door mechanisms! Keep on plugging.

[Mr9146]

Here's the answer: all the door latches will work in all of the doors - electric latches excluded - with all the handles (trigger or push button) if the requisite hardware is in place (i.e. early c-clips/straight rods or plastic clips/bent rods).

The keys will toggle the lock/unlock correctly, the triggers or buttons will push the latches correctly, etc.

Only the latches for electric locks won't work as they don't have a "lock" ear on the latch, only an "unlock" ear (they are single pin vs. rabbit ear).

[EsGeht]

Thank you, Marco for both your responses. What I don't get, then, is the different shape of the "ears". I only have my '72 to go by, but looking at the ears side-to-side in my first pic, the ears on the left ('72) has a large cut-out area under the left ear, so that when the ear is locked,i.e., turned to the right, the trigger pin misses the ears completely. When I installed the "new/old/used" (the one on the right in my first picture) lock mechanism on my car, I could get it to lock by moving the ears to the right, but the outside door handle would open it right up because the trigger pin pushed directly on the part of the "New" ear that doesn't exist on the '72 model "ear". So I'm just assuming that is the difference in the types. I claim no great knowledge of these things and defer to your experience, in fact, I really hope you are right and I'm just making more to this than I need to. All I know is besides the attachment of the pull rods, somethin' don't seem to be right. I'm waiting for another mechanism to arrive and I'll post results. Thanks again.

[Mr9146]

Mike,

All Porsche latches, if fully locked, will not open when you push them. End of story.

When fully locked (rocked all the way over) the rocker will slide right past the "unlatch" portion of the latch mechanism regardless of what outside door handle is used.

Knowing this fact I can only surmise that one of a few things may have happened when you tested the latch: 1) it was not fully locked (i.e. the rocker wasn't all the way over) or 2) the latch is worn out so when it's in the "lock" position and it gets hit with the pin it moves a bit and still unlatches the door. In case 2 no amount of diddling will fix the latch ... it's garbage can food.

I can't speak directly to the various changes that Porsche made to the latch mechanism - not sure why they did what they did. But I can tell you for a fact that all the non-electric latches are interchangable so long as the various and sundry rods and mechanisms match.

As an aside, it should be noted that the "feel" changes when you use a push button latch with a trigger type. IT WILL WORK, but based on the shapes and bends of the lock/unlock rocker the feel at the trigger/button and lock cylinder is not quite right. But, again, IT WILL WORK.