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Thread: Need help with details for correct restoration please :)

  1. #1
    Semjon Semjon's Avatar
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    Need help with details for correct restoration please :)

    Hi guys, after searching this board and other sources for the answers and not finding them I could really use your help

    I'm restoring a modelyear 66, build November 65 911 which now has been painted.

    Next step is wiring and axles/suspension.

    Before the wiring goes in I would like the inside of the car to be perfect and all details correct. Biggest question I have with this is which parts need to be black? I found pics of cars with total black insides and cars with only the edges round the tunnel and rear seats in black.

    My car is light ivory and although such things are covered with carpet and trim pieces I would like to have the details correct.

    Examples of what I found;




    So basically, what is correct? All black or just around the edges?

    Then another question regarding the suspension and especially the CAD plating of certain pieces. I saw some beautiful restorations on this site which differ in details. Sometimes the complete suspension in black, sometimes little items are CAD plated and sometimes a lot of items are CAD plates.
    What is correct?

    Again some examples of what I found;







    Again the basic question, which parts should be plated and which should be black?

    Any help would be really appreciated!
    Thanks in advance
    Early 911S registry member #1391
    Built '65, MY66 911 in total restoration

  2. #2
    Semjon,

    I think the second photo is closest to the truth-- looks original texture to me.

    First photo- interior of cabin is black schutz up to the B-pillars. Certain areas inside were taped off so they wouldn't get the schutz buildup, these were satin black. Of course the dash was satin black OVER the body color. I think the order of operations was-- black schutz. . . body color. . . black satin on the dashboard (schutz stops where the metal curves to go under the dash), around the handbrake (no schutz there), don't forget the black satin on the door edges (a common error). Body color overspray is on TOP of the schutz layer in the back suggesting that the schutz went on first.

    Second-- looks right, I can't see under the dash.

    Third- 67S with Konis. I think the ARB lever should be black. See below from FWM photo. The fact that the later ones are cad/chromate yellow throws people off- the few sets I have are actually a green primer all the way at the bottom.

    Next car is Leon's, beautiful, but I disagree about the levers. Everything else in that photo is the way I would do it.

    Next photo, the one with the webasto exhaust. I think the body braces for the crossmember are CORRECT in silver cad, that's what I'm doing to mine. I don't think the clamps for the tierods are correct in silver, they should be black. The adjusters are the real controversy-- those are silver, I think they should be black BUT there are some shots in the FWB that show them shiny compared to the sheen of the struts. I think it could be the flash, though. Also, the A-arm mounts for the drop links (drop links are black) are shiny, again, I think that's a reflection, unlikely they were plated.

    Last pic is Leon's again, I think the braces should be silver, everything else looks right to me. Green MC boot is available as a 912 bit from Stoddard.

    Do you know why you can't find this stuff?

    Copyright Porsche KG
    Attached Images Attached Images   
    1966 911 #304065 Irischgruen

  3. #3
    member #1515
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    Really nice work, maybe this is the way the factory should have done it!
    David

    '73 S Targa #0830 2.7 MFI rebuilt to RS specs

  4. #4
    Vintageracer John Straub's Avatar
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    How about the last photo...yellow or silver for the bolts on the A-arms?

    I'm thinking silver for a '65, but I'm not sure for the '66 built in November.

    The adjusters on the '65 I think should be black and on a '66.

    The center of the floor has a "horse hair" type of covering...not sure where to find that stuff.


    John
    1959 356 Coupe, 1600 Super, sold
    1960 356 Roaster, race car, SCCA, sold
    1960 356 Roadster, show car, sold.
    1962 356 Cab, show car, sold.
    1965 911 #301111, Red Book Vol 1 "Cover Car," owned 54 years.
    1967 911 #307347, bare-bones, some road wear, a little surface rust, and a few dents..., owned 14 years.
    1970 914/6GT, (Sold - ran the last three Rennsports)owned 30 years.


    Photography Site: JohnStraubImageWorks.com

    Registry #983
    R Gruppe #741

  5. #5
    John, do you mean the bolts that go through the lower ARB bracket into the control arm and capture the balljoint?

    I think those might be 10K bolts and actually BLACK on a '65, there's an "S" suffix in the part number. Look in PET for 900 082 029 02, that is a hexagon-head bolt, M12x1.5x45 S. Now look at 900 074 148 01, hexagon head bolt M8x35 S. The latter is a 10K bolt with the shank drilled for a cotter pin. You can see it changes to 8K hardware from chassis 305101, that's when the factory went from "pinch" u-joints to "spline" u-joints.

    I know these went gold by '66, it could be that they are gold anyway and the "S" just denotes that the shank is drilled? Hard to say as all are rusty. I'll check them soon and report.
    1966 911 #304065 Irischgruen

  6. #6
    Vintageracer John Straub's Avatar
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    Hi John,

    I was wondering about the bolts that hold the crossmember and braces. I think mine were silver and then I had them done in gold...now i'm going back to silver.

    The ones on my that hold the ball joint to the A-arm I think were silver on my car and drilled for cotter pins. Should the ARB bracket be painted black or plated?

    John
    1959 356 Coupe, 1600 Super, sold
    1960 356 Roaster, race car, SCCA, sold
    1960 356 Roadster, show car, sold.
    1962 356 Cab, show car, sold.
    1965 911 #301111, Red Book Vol 1 "Cover Car," owned 54 years.
    1967 911 #307347, bare-bones, some road wear, a little surface rust, and a few dents..., owned 14 years.
    1970 914/6GT, (Sold - ran the last three Rennsports)owned 30 years.


    Photography Site: JohnStraubImageWorks.com

    Registry #983
    R Gruppe #741

  7. #7
    Semjon Semjon's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by 304065 View Post
    Semjon,

    I think the second photo is closest to the truth-- looks original texture to me.

    First photo- interior of cabin is black schutz up to the B-pillars. Certain areas inside were taped off so they wouldn't get the schutz buildup, these were satin black. Of course the dash was satin black OVER the body color. I think the order of operations was-- black schutz. . . body color. . . black satin on the dashboard (schutz stops where the metal curves to go under the dash), around the handbrake (no schutz there), don't forget the black satin on the door edges (a common error). Body color overspray is on TOP of the schutz layer in the back suggesting that the schutz went on first.

    Second-- looks right, I can't see under the dash.
    Hi John, Thanks a lot! Currently my inside is looking like this;




    Everything is painted bodycolor and the dash is shot in satin black.
    So basically a mistake in order made there...

    So if I understand correct;
    - bodyschuts till B-pillars, which include front "firewall" onder dash and rockers.
    - tunnel around handbrake in satin.

    What about the rest? I know about the horsehair sound damping but what should go underneath? Should the bottom also be satin black? And what about the rear seat area and parcel shelf?

    Quote Originally Posted by 304065 View Post
    Third- 67S with Konis. I think the ARB lever should be black. See below from FWM photo. The fact that the later ones are cad/chromate yellow throws people off- the few sets I have are actually a green primer all the way at the bottom.

    Next car is Leon's, beautiful, but I disagree about the levers. Everything else in that photo is the way I would do it.

    Next photo, the one with the webasto exhaust. I think the body braces for the crossmember are CORRECT in silver cad, that's what I'm doing to mine. I don't think the clamps for the tierods are correct in silver, they should be black. The adjusters are the real controversy-- those are silver, I think they should be black BUT there are some shots in the FWB that show them shiny compared to the sheen of the struts. I think it could be the flash, though. Also, the A-arm mounts for the drop links (drop links are black) are shiny, again, I think that's a reflection, unlikely they were plated.

    Last pic is Leon's again, I think the braces should be silver, everything else looks right to me. Green MC boot is available as a 912 bit from Stoddard.

    Do you know why you can't find this stuff?

    Copyright Porsche KG
    So basically Leon's car is correct except the levers which should be black. If I combine this info together with how it's done on the car with the webasto heater and paint the clamps for the tierods black I'm good to go!

    I thank you (and the others of course) very much for your input and knowledge! It's amazing to see how much knowledge there is on this board!
    Thanks a lot for making my restoration and dream possible!! Really appreciate it!
    Early 911S registry member #1391
    Built '65, MY66 911 in total restoration

  8. #8
    Here is a shot from my library showing where the schutz stops up under the dash.

    Yes, I think Leon's car is good, I am not certain whether the bolts should be silver or yellow. I would plate the support arms, all the FWM photos show them silver.

    I am going with black for the ARB lower mount. Here is a later photo from the FWM (note koni strut), I think this and the one above confirms.
    Attached Images Attached Images   
    1966 911 #304065 Irischgruen

  9. #9
    Semjon, sorry I didn't answer your question properly-- yes, the Schutz goes all the way up to the windows on the parcel shelf, under the rear side windows, over the rockers and up under the dash, it stops where I indicated above.

    The factory masked the car off- they wouldn't shoot schutz where they had to bolt an assembly to the body, like the handbrake-- so there's just satin black there.

    I am 99% certain the floors got schutz, and of course the floors had horsehair pads. These are one of the first things to go-- I've only seen ONE car that had them looking good (Nate Y's car up on Fidalgo Island).

    The horsehair pads are all over the sides of the car under the windows, on the rockers, down into the seat wells, across the parcel shelf.

    Gotta have that horsehair smell.

    Back to the order of assembly-- black shutz on the shells and under the fenders-- body color over that- then black satin. This makes sense from what we know about the hood hinges-- they were painted black AFTER the hinges were assembled-- and the bolt heads are satin black along with the hinges. (the FWM shows the hinges body color. . . but we KNOW that's not the way the cars came off the line)-- the demonstration car is white and there is no black around the bottoms of the doors. . . so I think it skipped the step on the line where everything got painted satin black.

    Hope this helps. . . would be great to see everyone's photos of this stuff.
    1966 911 #304065 Irischgruen

  10. #10
    I am 99% certain the floors got schutz, and of course the floors had horsehair pads. These are one of the first things to go-- I've only seen ONE car that had them looking good (Nate Y's car up on Fidalgo Island).
    John a note from personal experience. Over the years I have had a few cars w/ horsehair pads that were/ are in prima condition. Too get them out kind of nice is nearly only possible if water has crept between the padding and the floorpan. In that case the pads come out in one piece. If the floors are bone dry than the mats are almost impossible to remove in one piece because they were melted to the floorpan.

    AutosInt sell pads that are substitutes for the horsehair pads.

    Richard

    p.s. Semjon - and my excuse if I am wrong - but your body seem to miss the seat belt bolt receiver stud on the R side (above the wheel well which can be seen in the red car ). Is that correct?

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