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Thread: Oil line routing

  1. #1

    Oil line routing

    I'm in the middle of building a '67S spec vintage race car, and need ideas for routing the oil lines to the front of the car.

    If possible, I'd rather not have them exposed under the rocker. Is there a clean way of getting them through the longitudinal? That would be my first choice, second would be on the passenger floor, third would be on the exterior.

    Pictures would be much appreciated!

    Thanks,

    Todd
    Orange, CA

  2. #2
    Hi,

    In case a few pics help.

    The first oil lines Porsche used on 911 production cars was from 69 and were fitted in the sills. Here are some being fitted into a 1970 2.2S (RHD). I have pics of lines we are fitting at the moment to a 73 RS (external lines) if that also helps?


    Thanks

    Alan






  3. #3
    Thanks Alan...

    That's one method I've considered.

    Anyone have any others??

    Todd

  4. #4
    Senior Member
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    Race car install interior and be done with it.
    Early 911S member #166

    I have no problem with the theory that all men are created equal.
    But after that moment you are on your own and nobody owes you a damn thing.

  5. #5

    Oil lines in rocker panel

    Similar to the 1969 S style as Alan has posted. (I used a bent up set of 69S as part of the mock-up). These are stainless.

    Sculpted the lower "kidney" support behind the door. Ran the lines inside the front fender closing panel to minimize the tires rock throw off damage. Door opening clearance is critical in that tight space.

    Line thermostat is where a SC would be.

    Others have used this routing with Aeroquip hose.
    ___________________
    An alternative is Aeroquip thru the heater tube. It comes out of the rocker panel under the dash and enters the wheelhouse. The bends get quite tight if you don't open up the bodywork. Fishing the line is said to be hard.

    Let us know what you end-up with.

    (I do have the brass fittings cut from SC lines and the smaller 69S lines if your interested in doing home brew with metric line threads).
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    Bob
    Early S Reg #370

  6. #6
    Senior Member timgt3's Avatar
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    Bringing this one to the top. I'm restoring my 1970 911S and currently working on the bottom of the A pillar and the sills. I see a few shots in this thread but I need some more that will help me get the through the sill oil lines mounted correctly.

    Can I see the treatment at the bottom of the A pillar. Is there a cut out under the door pillar? Do I need clearance for the door opening?

    On the sills, will nutserts be adequate along the length of the sills of should I weld nuts behind the sills?

    In the B pillar kidney bowl, how do I work the kidney bowl so there is no rubbing through the lines?

    Thanks in advance.
    Tim Pritchard

    1970 911S (resto underway) http://www.early911sregistry.org/for...ge-1970S-resto
    1976 Carrera 3.0 Group Sc Race Car
    1969 911T Group Sb Race Car (Sold to a good home)

  7. #7
    Hi Tom,

    yes the lower portion of the "A" post was scalloped in to give clearance for the up-bend of the oil lines.

    The deep "U" shaped scallop in the kidney was for clearance and also the pocket helps hold the lines snug.

    I'm a fan of the flange nut. It gives a welding surface and enough thread depth to give a good bite. Braze or spot weld as conditions allow. You can use them proud of the surface or drill a hole and have them recessed (same principal as a riv-nut but with more material thickness).
    Note: back when this was done I used a surface welded flange nut with minimal clearance so it was close to the bracket/mount bottoming out and used rubber for surface contact and the gap.
    Ed Mayo uses a nylon sleeve over the mount bolt shaft to adjust the tension with the riv-nuts threads behind the sheet metal - a deeper spacing condition.

    The bottom of the "A" pillar lines mount is positioned so if the lines need servicing (removal) the mount bolt is accessible with the fender unbolted. The attachment on the rear kidney is a drill out stainless rivet accessible without damaging or opening the fender or rocker.

    Yes do a very complete trial fit to get the clearance for the swinging door to the lines. All it takes is a slight movement to get interference. You don't want a rubbing door with every opening. Note the over-done upper line mount perch to the front wheel house to hold the line position (I didn't want these lines moving).
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    Bob
    Early S Reg #370

  8. #8
    Senior Member timgt3's Avatar
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    Thx bob, that's great. Much appreciated
    Tim Pritchard

    1970 911S (resto underway) http://www.early911sregistry.org/for...ge-1970S-resto
    1976 Carrera 3.0 Group Sc Race Car
    1969 911T Group Sb Race Car (Sold to a good home)

  9. #9
    Senior Member timgt3's Avatar
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    If I can get some photos of bottom of the A pillar that would be really helpful.
    Rhx
    Tim Pritchard

    1970 911S (resto underway) http://www.early911sregistry.org/for...ge-1970S-resto
    1976 Carrera 3.0 Group Sc Race Car
    1969 911T Group Sb Race Car (Sold to a good home)

  10. #10
    Senior Member timgt3's Avatar
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    Bumped this up to the top...still looking for some photos of the oil lines running through the A pillar section please....
    Tim Pritchard

    1970 911S (resto underway) http://www.early911sregistry.org/for...ge-1970S-resto
    1976 Carrera 3.0 Group Sc Race Car
    1969 911T Group Sb Race Car (Sold to a good home)

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