Lug nut life?!

[NV Stig]

Is it true that the old 911's have magnesuim lug nuts and that they should be replaced every 10 years? I thought they were aluminum lug nuts, and I've never heard that they have a shelf life. I have heard that you always hand tighten them and never use an air gun on them, due to the metal being soft enough that you can strip them easily.
I ended up getting a set for $50.00 out of concern, just wondering if I got rope a doped. Thanks guys.

[Flieger]

I only replace them for cosmetic reasons when they get banged up.

They are Aluminum and I hand-thread the lug nuts to start them, then final torque in a star pattern using a beam-type torque wrench.

[John Z Goriup]

If you are going to use alum. lug nuts, I recommend coating each stud with a small quantity of Never - Sieze compound. It will help to achieve a true torque reading, ( no air tools ever, tighten by manual torque wrench only ) and will prevent galvanic reaction.

[chiroracer]

And check the threads too to make sure they arent galled x2 on anti seize.Btw race sanctioning bodys and thesports purpose manual do not allow use of the alum nuts for competition.

[NV Stig]

Thanks Guys, you confirmed that the lug nuts are aluminum and not magnesium. Magnesium seems like it would be way too brittle to take those lateral loads.
I didn't know that aluminum lugs weren't allowed for racing though. They are OEM for the car, right? They went right onto the hubs without any sign of binding, the threads are good. I'll make inquiries here at Sport Haus, they certify you for the track out here at Fernley.

[raspy2point2]

Hot brakes from racing create problems getting the lug nuts off.

[RSTarga]

What is the Torque setting on them?

[Flieger]

I use 94 lb-ft. on my Aluminum lug nuts.

[orange911]

If you use anti-seize, you have to raise the torque setting to account for the additional slip. The reported torque values are for dry, unwaxed, and non-lubed. I would add 10% additional torque for anti-seize use.

[304065]

If you use anti-seize, you have to raise the torque setting to account for the additional slip. The reported torque values are for dry, unwaxed, and non-lubed. I would add 10% additional torque for anti-seize use.

Uhh, that is exactly the opposite of correct.

When you add any lubricant you reduce the surface friction, which allows you to put more preload in the fastener (stretch) before the wrench clicks. Think about it like this-- which would click sooner, a torque wrench on a lubed bolt/nut or a rusty one? Of course the rusty one has more resistance and will click sooner with the bolt elongated less.

So with lubrication. . . LESS torque than specified. For lug bolts, which are 10,9 property-class and there are FIVE of them- I would stick with 94 ft/pounds and call it cool.