loom rebuild / build new

[advtracing]

i have an ST build on the go , the car was a std T Europe delivered so ran carbs not MFI. and we are going to be running MFI , twin plug etc..

I need to either : have the entire loom rebuilt with parts removed due to the extra items not needed ( passenger battery, clock , rear screen de mister , sunroof...)

or have a new loom built .
So who does everyone recommend to do either option ? i believe there was a firm in Germany that did a great job matching the original but can't find them online.

[DynoDave]

Check out Y N Z Yesterdays Parts. They are located in Redlands, CA. We have used them in the past for a new wiring harness on a Spyder restoration. Their website is www.ynzyestredaysparts.com and their phone # is (909) 798-1498. Hope this helps.

Dave

[304065]

Passenger battery- just remove the cable at the driver's side clamp.

Clock- easy to tape off the power wire and leave it in the harness.

Engine MFI harness- is basically independent of the chassis harness-- speed switch wires are contained in the engine compartment with the black/purple running forward to the tach, but that's the same as in a carb harness. Coldstart (will you use the factory coldstart for an ST, I sort of doubt it) likewise is between fusebox power (present in carbed car), coldstart relay, coldstart switch (either the 2,0 or later version- these have slightly different operating rules as detailed in CHECK MEASURE ADJUST).

Twin plugs, well you need power wires for the second ignition system, I assume you are using a pair of BOSCH BHKZ/CDI - these can also take power from the rear fusebox.

The neat thing is the wiring harnesses forward of the engine compartment were basically the same from carb to MFI, the factory didn't differentiate all that much if you look at them side by side.

YNZ are awesome, I will probably use one of their harnesses in my concours 66, but man, $2500 for a harness is big dollars compared to a few hours of labor to clean, repair, replace old terminals with correct rubber-covered German brass ones (with correct factory crimp) and call it cool.

Of course if your carb harness has chafing or short-circuit damage (MANY do, particularly behind the gauges in the dash where the unfused gauge illumination circuit shorts against the brown grounds or the body sheetmetal) then don't hesitate to replace. Or if this is a PERFECT restoration then of course, diagram out everything you want with twin CDI, etc., and then have YNZ make it custom. . .

Good luck!

[Tom F.]

Try Rhode Island Wiring Service for DIY supplies. I like YnZ, but turnaround is fairly long and, as has been said, they are expensive.

[advtracing]

cheers for the details , i will look into ynz as $2500 is a small price to pay when the existing one could have unknown issues and could go up in flames.

[Will 1967]

cheers for the details , i will look into ynz as $2500 is a small price to pay when the existing one could have unknown issues and could go up in flames.

If small joking is allowed: to put it into perspective, I just paid 180$ for Mk1 Mini Cooper wiring loom. So I wouldn't call 2500$ exactly cheap.

[304065]

cheers for the details , i will look into ynz as $2500 is a small price to pay when the existing one could have unknown issues and could go up in flames.

Yes, I wouldn't put a used one in any car without literally inspecting every square inch and checking each circuit with an ohmmeter. A good weekend project.

[boba]

For my build which had quite a few delete items we felt it made more sense to build a new wiring harness than to strip and remove the un-needed circuits from a 37 year old harness. We started with a "kit" from Painless Performance which included a new fuse block as I was not concerned about keeping the original style block or fuses. We then used a modern wrap to clean up the install. We did reuse the factory connectors.

http://www.painlessperformance.com/

One additional advantage of a new harness is the reduced weight.
Here are a few photos of the build and install in progress.

[Sean F]

which kit did you use?

[advtracing]

looks nice , but i'm going the period correct path.

As for price for a new one , $2500 is not cheep but if you put 100k into a car and had a fire due to an electrical fault which could have been avoided for $2500 you would be be pretty pissed off.