Cleaning up the SWB - paint here we come!

[sabby]

As a former auto paint professional, want to compliment the work! Just curious what paint system/materials you decided to use?

[kenikh]

As a former auto paint professional, want to compliment the work! Just curious what paint system/materials you decided to use?

I will look tonight for the actual type, but it is 100% PPG. I am going sandable primer, epoxy sealer then 2 stage color/clear.

[sabby]

PPG makes a good product...good luck!.....post some pics of the final stages..

[kenikh]

Alrighty...

1. First, I have already sanded the original finish to a glass smooth 400 grit (as well as filling the odd ding, etc.)
2. The sandable primer coat will be PPG NCP271, using a Devilbiss Finishline 3 and a 1.8 tip.
3. I will block sand this to 400 grit, using Guide Coat to get it perfect.
4. I will then apply dark gray DP90LF Epoxy primer, cut down with reducer as the sealer over the top of that. Finishline 3, again.
5. Once set, it will be ready for color. I was originally going to use PPG DAR Urethane Acrylic Enamel, but just don't have enough gun time lately to screw around with single stage, sooo...
6. Will most likely use something like PPG Deltron 2000 base/clear, color to sample. Will use my Devilbiss Plus 670G w/ 1.4 tip.
7. Clear will be 4ish coats, following flash and reapplication guidelines.
8. Once set, it will then be DA wet sanded, starting grit depending on surface finish.
9. Will finish with DA @ 3000 grit, then machine polish using my Makita detail polisher, using at least 3 cuts of 3M compound.

Sounds like a plan?

[Rich Lambert]

That definitely sounds do'able by April 1st!

[304065]

Two stage paint?

On a 1966?

Kenik: do this job like you're never going back to do it again.

[sabby]

.....I'll make a few comments to your plan--be aware, these are coming from somewhat of an oldtimer (started in the late 1970's) and also from someone who owned an exclusively Glasurit equipped shop..take them for what you think they are worth;

Firstly, I would be wary about applying any type of non-sanding sealer over your carefully prepped primer. You are working very hard to get a near perfect substrate using your primer--why take a chance of getting a run, sag or imperfection when the sealer is not necessary at all. your old top coat and primer are virtually bullet proof as far as corrosion is concerned. I would only recommend a sealer as a barrier between imcompatible materials. In the old days of lacquer primer a sealer was necessary to prevent the topcoat from 'melting' the primer into sandscratches (for good 'holdout as' it was referred to). I would go one step further and use 500 grit on the primer and you are ready to go. Run a good cleaning prep solvent over the car panel by panel and sight down the car as you do this--brings out any minute waves and imperfections. Reprimer spots as necessary

I would recommend 3 coats of clear---4 is usually excessive unless you are doing some heavy colorsanding

As far as the colorsanding, let the paint cure as long as you can--the longer the better (we sometimes waited 2 weeks if we could). We would generally HAND sand the topcoat beginning with anywhere from 1000-1500 grit wet and move succesively to 2000-2500. I would then let the paint "recure" for a few days and then machine polish. I would definitely not machine colorsand--we never did. Hands on really gives you the control and precision you need.

Make sure you blow off the car outside of your painting area and really take your time getting into all the nooks and crannies over and under the car.

Don't forget a little fish-eye additive in the paint---will save a lot of heartaches.

I could go on but............................................

good luck!

[sabby]

BTW--I agree with John C.---I'd encourage you to shoot this single stage, both for originality and also for it's "straightforwardness" in terms of application......

[kenikh]

Why do you have to be the devil on ny shoulder egging on my obsessive-compulsive side? I have struggled with this and here's what I ended up with.

First, single stage requires perfect technique, not something a rusty elbow like mine has. Cleaning up imperfections on single stage is a PIA.

Second, I was committed to single stage until I saw Chris Nielsen's '67 hot rod. I used to be convinced you can tell, but after seeing that car...well, if he'd said it was single stage, I'd have bought it.

Third, application and repair is sooo much easier on two stage.

Fourth, the car has enough little issues that worrying about those as much as worrying about the paint type would mean going after the car as a bare metal resto...not going there. Realistically going this deep, why not use Glasurit. The slope gets steeper.

Overall, I haven't bought the paint yet, so may still use PPG DAR single stage over Deltron 2000 2 stage...dilemmas, dilemmas.

I will happily listen to all opinions.

[kenikh]

Thanks, Sabby, I will modify the grits. I use PPG Acrilyclean as the surface cleaner and do run sight lines when using it. The car is damed near perfect, even now.

Omitting the sealer sounds nice...I was using it to be safe, BUT the epoxy sealer I was using is actually specced as sandable. Thoughts?