Max's 911 T Going Irish Green

[FHernand]

I took a trip down to San Diego to meet Max and his newly acquired red 1970 911 T. The project outline was easy as he new exactly what he wanted for his car. The color choice was a no brainer, Irish Green. While there, we played with the addition of four additional running lights two on the lower hood and two on the front fender… Max got me so wound-up that I rolled up the sleeves and got started Placement of these lights was no easy task since they must be at the correct distance and angle from each other. After over an hour, we got to marking the spots and drilling holes…Max had to stop me from going on. A week later, the red T was transported to the SF bay area for me to start restoration.

So, the project outline is a complete down to metal paint restoration in a showroom Glasurit Irish Green finish. Of course, before we get to the final top coat, we will be addressing placement of new lower front end panels, inner and outer rockers, closing gaps to 3-4mm, some media blasting, metal work, plastic filler and lot’s of blocking to achieve the flawless uniform look of the 911 panels. I applaud Max for sticking to the original color. I must say the Irish Green is one of my favorite colors to work with. I’m looking forward to posting the progress. So, here we go…

[teenchy]

Subscribed. I want to see how soon I need to hit the lottery or come into an inheritance, so I can send my car to you for a repaint in its original color!

Ed

[Max (SD)]

Well folks, this is in fact my car. Purchased about two years ago. After driving around one full year, felt it needed engine and transmission work, and when I finally figured that bit out, realized might as well commit to have the body worked on properly and bring back to its original Irish Green.

The car did not come to me with matching motor or transmission, and those two items are being built up and prepared at the good folks at Supertec, motor will be a 2.7 RS motor.

I too am looking forward to Freddie proceeding on this project, and to share with the rest of the registry photos of its progress.

[FHernand]

While the chassis is on hold for media blasting, I have started the restoration process on hood. I must admit that the hoods and decklids are my favorite panels to work on since they really show the glamore of the finish product the best. his particular hood had four different colors; red, gray, brown, and Irish Green. I was surprised to find little bondo work on the hood. The front of the hoods normally have some bondo or waves since this is the area where some use bruit force to close the hood. The way I like to shut my hood is by pressing with flat hands on the very front edge or curvature of the hood where the sheet metal is much stronger.

I started by sanding the top coat with an air grinder using 40 grit. The course sand paper will allow the paint remover to bite into the bottom coats of paint and thus, lift the paint. I finish the bare metal with 80 grit and applied two coats of a two-part epoxy primer to seal the metal and protect from corrosion. I have had great success in applying bondo over the epoxy. Before starting my metal work/bondo I will rough the surface with 120 grit. It’s a very satisfying feeling knowing the metal has been treated and sealed permanently with epoxy.

TIP: I strongly recommend using a metal cleaner to assure the surface is clear of any oil or grease before applying two coats of epoxy.

[merbesfield]

I see you are using media blasting on the body. I have seen many posts from guys that say they do not recommend MB bc of all the holes the Porsche's have. I did media on my trunk compartment bc I believe in what is does vs. the fact that grinding alone could never get into the nooks and crannies like MB. But I must say that after doing my MB, it was a bitch getting all the media out. And I spend a lot of time sealing holes, but to no avail. What is your opinion. I see in Europe, most of the restoration shops use MB.

[FHernand]

merbesfield- I only use media blasting on the area that absolutely needed otherwise, I strip using machinery.

[merbesfield]

merbesfield- I only use media blasting on the area that absolutely needed otherwise, I strip using machinery.

Yes, but that is the problem, typically the areas that need the blast are the nooks and crannies and how do you keep the media from going everywhere? High pressure forces the stuff everywhere. I think the only places that cannot really be blown out are the rockers, if they are not being replaced that is. I am sure there are tons of other voids in these cars that I don't even know about. Rust is a terrible thing and from my experience, if the smallest amount is left it will creep back. Media Blasting is the only way I can see to reach deep into cracks.

[FHernand]

merbesfield, let me give you a tip, if I may, the key to a good clean media blasting job is in the preparation. This area of media blasting is highly overlooked in some applications. It takes me many hours of prepping the car prior to media blasting. Even if it's a small area, the entire car needs proper taping/protection. Once the car is media blasted, it take many hours to air blow, vacum any sand left behind. On some cars, I still find much sand in the vent system because care was not taken to tape off air vents properly. Additionally, I find it important to find a guy that has deep knowledge and experience handling a media blasting hose. This person, IMHO, is as key as the guy who preps your car for final paint. In my experience, media blasting has been a close friend

[merbesfield]

merbesfield, let me give you a tip, if I may, the key to a good clean media blasting job is in the preparation. This area of media blasting is highly overlooked in some applications. It takes me many hours of prepping the car prior to media blasting. In my experience, media blasting has been a close friend

Freddie, I totally agree. I did spend hours, what amounted to days, prepping for the actual blast. I thought I was very through, which, usually I am, and still there was sand in places I did not expect. I think this is just part of it, bc, as you said, MB is a close friend and one that to me is a necessary evil if you will in getting rid or the true evil, RUST. Thanks for all the great input you give us all here on the board. My next MB will be the inside of the car. I will be cutting the pans and working on the rear package tray. Any recommendations? Once the floors are out, I see no way of doing a good job w/out blasting prior to replacement. As for the package tray, same deal, I have rust in the corners and before I can make the proper sheet metal repairs, I need to have clean metal.

[FHernand]

One never knows what lies beneath the coats of paints, primers, bondo and metal panels. When I stripped the deck lid, I found four large holes that had been drilled through the metal. I’m yet to figure out why someone would have done this. I suppose it might have been to bolt down a luggage rack or partial ducktail of sorts. At any rate, the design for the deck lid is to have a every hole welded giving the lid a smooth shaved finish.

Once I removed the outer rocker panels, I found some more trails of a hack job done to repair rust. Apparently card board and other items were shoved inside the rockers in order for the bondo to hold over the large rust holes. The plan on the rockers are to completely remove the outer and inner rockers and replaced with new OEM panels.