Rear fender replacement and rear cross mem

[merbesfield]

What is the best way to attack this rear fender replacement and rear cross member? After grinding the 1/4" thick plus bondo, what is below was bad. I have good replacement parts, just need help with what is the best way to go about removing and replacing? 68 912 body.

[merbesfield]

Here are the parts I have to replace it with. Same year 68 body.

[304065]

Do you see the rectangular raised spot on the old latch panel? That is a later part, I'm not sure when but it's definitely shorthood. Clearly evidence of a rear-ender at some point.

The quarters are toast obviously which is why you have the rear clip, and it has the correct "no-bump" latch panel, good. I would try to keep the b-pillars and the original latch panels intact and replace both quarters and light buckets. If the rear longitudinals are solid you can work from there, that is easier than trying to replace them back by the shock towers.

Do you have access to a Celette bench? You probably need to check the dimensions to be sure the rear longitudinals aren't bent, they can deform in a decent rear-end hit.

All that said I'm far from an expert, send a PM to SERIES900 and ask him to look at this thread. HE is a genuine expert and a true enthusiast for the SWB cars.

[Bobs 67S]

John are you pointing out this bump as a 1974 and newer (short hood cars) panel?

[304065]

All right Mr. Fleming. . . how about NEAR shorthood? As in late 73?

http://www.early911sregistry.org/for...id+latch+panel

What is for certain is that a '68 never had the bump, nor does my '71.

[merbesfield]

The car definitely was hit in the rear. The PO told me that. The rear cross member and the engine lid were replaced. Obviously, the finders where not. What is amazing is that the rear tail light buckets are in great shape. Almost no rust and no deformation from impact. I do not have access to a Jig. I have taken some basic measurements and things seem square, but I don't have dimension to check with. The areas under the B pillars are also good and don't need replacing although that may be the way to do it? I can butt weld the fender pieces together and make a seamless repair, but not sure of the sequence of things at the rear of the car. I guess I will figure it out as I take it apart but any advice would be appreciated. Here are some more pics of the donor body. I looked at my rear fenders and it looks like they are spot welded to the inside panels on the L&R on the underside of the drip rail. Can anyone confirm this? Clearly there are spot welds there, just wondering if there are other welds top side. Once the car is on the rotisserie I would think that will keep the rear from spreading while doing surgery. I will take some measurements before making cuts also. I will have to wait to see if the donor light buckets are good or not to determine if the entire assembly can be used or if I will have to graft fender onto my buckets.

[kenikh]

HOLY S---psh--t, Batman!

[merbesfield]

HOLY S---psh--t, Batman!

That's for sure. Lots of fun there.

Going on the rotisserie Monday. Picking up the body Thursday. I guess I better order some more cut off blades.

[robmog]

at the risk of stating the obvious;
use a course wire wheel to reveal the spot welds.
drill out the spot welds.
remove the cross member.
repeat with donor car.
i don't think you should put it on a rotissarie for this repair.
its likely to be in the way, and will stress the body.
better to put it on jack stands at suspension points.

[merbesfield]

at the risk of stating the obvious;
use a course wire wheel to reveal the spot welds.
drill out the spot welds.
remove the cross member.
repeat with donor car.
i don't think you should put it on a rotissarie for this repair.
its likely to be in the way, and will stress the body.
better to put it on jack stands at suspension points.

robmog, I think you are probably correct. I understand about the spot welds, as you mention, that is the obvious. What I am not sure about is the fenders. Do the fenders go on after the cross member and can they be done while on the rotisserie? The rotisserie is basically for easy access to the the floor pan. I have a bad back and hate welding on my back on the floor. Hard to do a good job that way.

So it looks like the order would be:
1. remove rear fenders with car on jack stands or cart.
2. remove cross member.
3. replace cross member.
4. remove suspension.
5. put body on rotisserie.
6. replace rear fenders.
7. replace floor pans.
8. continue with the other million things.