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Thread: Ten Fifty-nine

  1. #31
    Early S Reg #1395 LongRanger's Avatar
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    'Bits'

    One of the by-products of trolling all the sites, looking for and reading about these cars, is getting a sense of the ‘bits’ that go into them. And frankly, once I got a car, well . . . it’s all downhill from there. Seeing some of the stuff people have accumulated! ---- put me in a pretty acquisitive mode.

    To keep things from getting too out of hand, I’ve started out by getting just those ‘bits' that actually go into the car. But I’m gonna back up here, for a minute.

    I consider myself a hard- (as in rocky) -core originality type. My ideas about a ‘perfect' car go back to this old beater Cobra that I saw in the pits, back in the late ‘70s, between one of the heats of an early ‘vintage car’ race, at Riverside Raceway. Car was this odd-ball bright blue --- not that deep, royal blue all these cars have now --- this was almost periwinkle, and metallic, almost metal-flake --- big white meat-balls, jumbo race tires, and so low, I swear, the door-tops were at my knees. Owner/driver/keeper was this old scrawny dried-out-looking dude, The Marlboro Man --- at 70 --- jeans, boots, t-shirt, rolled-up sleeves. Guy walks up, pops the gas fill, sticks in a sawed-off broom-handle, checks the level, drops the stick, hops in, fires it up ---- I’m standing 20-feet away and the exhaust pulses are flapping my pant legs! --- he bumps the throttle a couple of times, looks at the gauges, shuts it off, stands up in the seat, gets out, walks away. The car? It reminded me of one of those old WW2 fighters you see in the airplane books; sitting out on the tarmac, dusty, a little beat, just waiting to go out and blow something up. Paint on the car’s nose had been pretty much blasted off --- I could see the crunchy, pitted, alu peeking out everywhere. No safety-wire on battered knock-offs. Wheels and tires almost the same shade of brake dust. Paint on the door top and fender was rubbed-off, just about to metal. No passenger seat. ‘Cowboy tidy,’ and all business. My kinda pretty.

    1059 will never be restored, at least not by me. Bodywork is gonna fit properly, and I want everything to open and close and work and go on and off like Porsche made it to. If something is broken, it gets fixed. If something’s missing --- it gets replaced. Everything else --- the cracked dash, the pitted chrome, spray-painted sun visors, plus all the tool-scarred fasteners and oil-stained undercarriage ---- stays. I’ll try to keep things reasonably clean, but 1059 is a runner, so if I show up at a show, I expect to be in the parking lot --- unless I’m asked to leave.

    Back to the ‘bits.’

    1) First up, an NOS tool bag, $400, from Don Ahearn in New York. (Thanks, Don!) Mark can’t find 1059's original sooooo I’m gonna play new owner and enjoy using this brand new one, breaking it in myself --- now all I need are the tools to do it with!

    2) Next, a nice used 901 shift knob, $200, from Don Sanderson in Canada (Thanks, Don!). 1059’s is really nice, but this is a genuine bit and ones this nice don’t turn up often. This One didn’t get away.

    3) Raid steering wheel adapter hub, $200, from Andy in England (Thanks, Andy!). Uh . . . can’t exactly find it, right now, but a really nice piece, heavy. Fits some of the odd-ball steering wheels I’ve been accumulating (see my contributions on the aftermarket steering wheel thread)

    4) Nice used H1s, $625 shipped, Carl Bauer (Thanks, Carl). I needed these soooo bad, after driving cross-country --- but not at night. (Well --- not much, any way.) I know I promised to put these on the car 5 minutes after I got ‘em, but, well, you’ll see . . .

    5) Alu rear license panel, $400, from Steve in Florida (Thanks, Steve!) Steve tells me that, when he was shipping the box, the thing was so light that the Guy at the Counter asked him . . . . if he was shipping cotton balls
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    Last edited by LongRanger; 07-05-2011 at 09:47 PM.

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  2. #32
    Early S Reg #1395 LongRanger's Avatar
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    More 'Bits'

    One more . . .

    Alu lid, $2500, courtesy of Dave Merz, in Northern California. (Thanks, Dave!) Dave was coming down here to Orange County, for the Dana Point Show, and was bringing the lid. Problem was, I was out of town that week-end so I asked Dave if he could stop by a Friend’s place, pick-up my payment, then find Tony Gerace at the event, give him the lid --- Tony’s next to my Body Guy, John Esposito. Everything worked out great . . . . and John really likes the lid!

    Looking at this list, I’m struck by all the people, from all the different places, who I've found here, buying and selling everything, from bits to whole cars . . .

    Really. I couldn’t do this car-thing --- wouldn’t know what to do, much less attempt it -- without our Membership.

    Thanks, you Guys.
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  3. #33
    Righteous Indignation 70SATMan's Avatar
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    Great thread! Any more detail pics of the license plate panel?

    I'm curious about what looks to be undercoating on the bottom profile? Any undercoating on the backside? I've read that originals weren't undercoated.

    Man, I've been looking for an original rear alum valance for awhile.
    Michael
    “Electricity is really just organized lightning”

    -Dusty 70S Coupe
    -S Registry #586

  4. #34
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    Alu Rear License Panel

    Hey, Michael . . .

    This original panel does look to have some traces of the underbody coating, like what gets sprayed on the rockers, on the lower edge of the outside. But this panel also may have been re-finished --- color looks a little light for anything I've seen on these cars --- so I'm not sure if that finish is original. I'll find out when the panel gets stripped and repaired (holes welded-up and tears fixed, etc.)

    The Old Repro alu panel that my car came with had nothing but crisping paint. The channel that holds that rubber seal you see in the photo below, as well as the seal itself --- were missing. I'm thinking that may have compromised the flow of cooling air over the muffler and caused the paint on my panel to toast.

    I'll ask John Esposito what he thinks about how this piece should be finished, then post an answer tomorrow.

    Nothing on the inside except crud --- and primer, maybe?

    (And way to go with the footsie-shot, Steve!)

    Hope this helps.
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  5. #35
    Righteous Indignation 70SATMan's Avatar
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    Thanks! It would be mucho helpful to us guys on the lookout if you could document the panel after its stripped down to the bare aluminum.. You know, details around the mounting brackets, seal channel and the stiffener area.

    The one repo I used to have sucked. The stamping wasn't crisp at all, the fit was lousy as well as the bracket mounting and the bumperette tabs. I took it out of the bag, compared it to a steel original I have and put it right back.

    Good on ya for finding one! Guess I should feel lucky though, got my alum lid before they got crazy.
    Michael
    “Electricity is really just organized lightning”

    -Dusty 70S Coupe
    -S Registry #586

  6. #36
    Early S Reg #1395 LongRanger's Avatar
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    Alu Rear License Panel

    I spoke with John Esposito, about the distinguishing features of the alu license panel:

    1) alu panel looks exactly like the factory's steel one --- only difference is the metal used

    2) the flange at the channel, across the top of the panel --- the one that's spot-welded on --- is overly large on the repro part, and needs to be cut back to properly take the seal. (Also, keep in mind that the repro's channel is poorly spot-welded to begin with and may be loose, or show signs of a weld-repair)

    3) the holes that accept the bumper guards, at the edges, must be perfectly symmetrical (from side to side) --- apparently, the repros seem to have a problem in this area

    4) alu license panels were originally primed and painted only --- no undercoating or textured finish of any kind . . . it just burns off

    I'll try and post some pictures, showing real and repro

    Rick Kreiskott

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  7. #37
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    Alu Rear License Panel Detail

    Here are some comparisons between original and reproduction alu rear license panels. (In the following photos, the reproduction part is the shiny one):

    1) and 2) seal channel: the channel that accepts the engine lid seal is substantially wider on the repro than on the original, and needs to be cut back before the seal will fit properly. Keep in mind also, that the spot-welds on the repro channel will fail or be missing (like on mine) if it isn't gas-welded in place

    3) reproduction bumper bracket attachment: blobby gas-weld tacks to fix the bracket to the panel --- remember, spot-welding alu requires very high energy to do properly

    4) original backet: spot-welded --- with no other welding
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  8. #38
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    Alu Rear License Panel Detail (more)

    1) and 2) Original and repro panels, side by side: this repro has some kind of re-enforcement spot-welded in, looks like around where a license plate would be attached

    3) Original panel has no re-enforcement
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  9. #39
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    Alu Rear License Panel Detail (more)

    The original panels have a much crisper stamping than the repros, too . . .

    1) and 2) original, outer edge 'step,' at the bumper guard. . .

    3) and 4) . . . vs the repro

    Compare the radii, at the bottom of the step . . . . notice how tight the corner is on the original (and how it's torn there, too), vs the wide radius of the repro.'
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  10. #40
    Early S Reg #1395 LongRanger's Avatar
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    Alu Decklid Numbers

    This lid has '25' stamped om the center support, just above the latch.

    Has anyone ever seen any numbers stamped anywhere, on any lid --- steel or alu?
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