Panels Needed for Restoration of 66 911

[TIM80SR]

Hi All,
I was wondering if I could call on the vast knowledge out there to give me a hand in determining which panels are likely to be needed to restore a 66 911, from your experience in restoring these vehicles ie which ones succumb to the red cancer. It is a British car, so probably twice as rusty as most US ones. The reason I ask is that I'm exporting the vehicle to Australia when I head home soon, to do the restoration there, and having never stripped an early 911 before, am not sure what I'll need, and the panels are much cheaper to buy in europe! If anyone has a list of the panels that are almost always needing to be replaced, it would be a massive help. original stuff would be ideal
ie floorpan has been patched - (do I go for repro or whole original?)
has telltale bubbles around rear window lower sections (as expected - will probably patch this)
front/rear wings look OK

What else may I need?
Thanks in Advance

[304065]

Best Case
Front Pan and gas tank support
Outer Rockers
Floor pans
Tail light boxes front and rear
In the rear fender well, the top corner where dirt and moisture accumulate-- underneath the chrome strip for the rear window.

Middle Case
All of the above plus:
Front fenders and rear quarters (exclusive of tail light boxes)
Doors (the holes plug and the bottom seam fills with moisture)
Kidney bowl area at B-pillar
Fender joining panels at trailing edge of front fenders
Rear Seat pan under rear window
Boot cowl near windshield wipers
Smugglers box area into passenger compartment

Worst case
All the above plus
Longitudinals
Roof (yes, the ROOF rusts in an SWB 911)
Torsion tube

Quite honestly I wouldn't be buying anything until the car has been stripped to bare metal-- and unfortunately, that's when the decision is properly made to continue with the restoration or shred the car and start over.

Best Case: par for the course, consider yourself lucky
Middle Case: Big dollars and time but if the numbers match, get started.
Worst Case: Better be an "S."

However, and it's a big however: given that your car is RHD, that automatically makes it sufficiently rare that almost ANY measures undertaken to restore it to former glory will prove economic in the medium-term (5 to 7 years after you complete the restoration).

How about some photos to guide us? If it's one subject I feel qualified to comment on it's the tinworm. . . .

[TIM80SR]

Best Case
Front Pan and gas tank support
Outer Rockers
Floor pans
Tail light boxes front and rear
In the rear fender well, the top corner where dirt and moisture accumulate-- underneath the chrome strip for the rear window.

Middle Case
All of the above plus:
Front fenders and rear quarters (exclusive of tail light boxes)
Doors (the holes plug and the bottom seam fills with moisture)
Kidney bowl area at B-pillar
Fender joining panels at trailing edge of front fenders
Rear Seat pan under rear window
Boot cowl near windshield wipers
Smugglers box area into passenger compartment

Worst case
All the above plus
Longitudinals
Roof (yes, the ROOF rusts in an SWB 911)
Torsion tube

Quite honestly I wouldn't be buying anything until the car has been stripped to bare metal-- and unfortunately, that's when the decision is properly made to continue with the restoration or shred the car and start over.

Best Case: par for the course, consider yourself lucky
Middle Case: Big dollars and time but if the numbers match, get started.
Worst Case: Better be an "S."

However, and it's a big however: given that your car is RHD, that automatically makes it sufficiently rare that almost ANY measures undertaken to restore it to former glory will prove economic in the medium-term (5 to 7 years after you complete the restoration).

How about some photos to guide us? If it's one subject I feel qualified to comment on it's the tinworm. . . .

Thanks for your time with this reply - really helpful- the car's in storage at the moment but I will try and get some pics of the areas you mentioned and post em. Yeah it's a matching numbers RHD on solexes - going to be completely gutted and restored to original specs, bit of a father/son project with the old man. I agreed that the purchase of the respective panels should be done when she's stripped back, but the panels from porsche are 1/3 the price here than in Aus, so thought it may be worthwhile to stick a few in the shipping container with it - bit of a gamble I know!

[Alan.uk]

Hi,

Where is the car? I am based in Dorset on the south coast if that may help? We have restored a few SWB cars, you may for example need most of these (bar the torsion bar housing)



These were for a 68 (RHD) undergoing full resto. Also if it helps we keep SWB wings fr and rear, bonnets and some smaller panels in stock.

Thanks

Alan

[advtracing]

get everything large that you MIGHT need and ship it with the car in the same container !!! it will save you massive amounts of coin . shipping to aussie and new zealand is some of the most expensive in the world . If you find you don't need something there is always willing buyers down here.

[TIM80SR]

Hi,

Where is the car? I am based in Dorset on the south coast if that may help? We have restored a few SWB cars, you may for example need most of these (bar the torsion bar housing)



These were for a 68 (RHD) undergoing full resto. Also if it helps we keep SWB wings fr and rear, bonnets and some smaller panels in stock.

Thanks

Alan

Hi Alan, Car is in West London, I'll send a parts list for some prices next week when I've guestimated what I'll need - Is there an easy way to tell if the front/rear wings are gone, ie where should i scratch out?
Cheers Tim

[TIM80SR]

get everything large that you MIGHT need and ship it with the car in the same container !!! it will save you massive amounts of coin . shipping to aussie and new zealand is some of the most expensive in the world . If you find you don't need something there is always willing buyers down here.

Good to know mate, see how far the ol credit card can stretch.........

[davep]

Yeah it's a matching numbers RHD on Solexes

It would be very interesting to know the details of this car; VIN, paint code, engine & tranny #'s. The original UK license plate # is also very useful for tracking the history of the car.
Don't forget that front wings, doors and lids all have the last three digits of the VIN stamped in them, so replacing them should be carefully considered; and perhaps not thrown out anyway.
You might find some mates in Australia wanting to have you bring over extra parts in the container, thus helping reduce your costs.
Judging by the restorations that Alan has been working on, he is in the best position to look over your project, and offer advice.

[TIM80SR]

It would be very interesting to know the details of this car; VIN, paint code, engine & tranny #'s. The original UK license plate # is also very useful for tracking the history of the car.
Don't forget that front wings, doors and lids all have the last three digits of the VIN stamped in them, so replacing them should be carefully considered; and perhaps not thrown out anyway.
You might find some mates in Australia wanting to have you bring over extra parts in the container, thus helping reduce your costs.
Judging by the restorations that Alan has been working on, he is in the best position to look over your project, and offer advice.

Ok, no worries, I was planning on putting the details on reg site when I got home, but here it is:

Model/yr 911 1966
build date: 03-03-1966
chassis no: 303661
eng no: 903793/901/01
trans no: 228304/902/01
paint code: 6605 - bahama yellow
interior colour/materials: black leatherette
opt equip: RHD, loud speaker(does this mean a radio was fitted at the dealer?)
UK reg no: LYL 2D

All confirmed with porsche certificate of authenticity

currently sprayed red and fitted with sliding webasto sunroof believed to be fitted by AFN porsche dealership when new, pending confirmation of this from records.

Thanks for the tip with the door stamps etc, been meaning to pull cards off to check this - where abouts are the numbers stamped on the lids?

I'd be happy to bring over some extra parts for anyone else, will just need to check the limit of what can be packed into the container, as we're bringing some household stuff home as well, so if anyone's interested let me know and I'll see what I can do!

Tim

[Bobs 67S]

Tim, look here:

Doors - center of the door
Front fenders - inside the headlight bucket
Hood - under a hinge
Engine lid - center spar behind the grille, passenger side, reads to the outside, (or could be under a hinge).

Panels were fitted and stamped. Correct fit/matching parts would then be installed after painting.