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Thread: case stud removal

  1. #1
    St-Classic.com advtracing's Avatar
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    case stud removal

    couldn't find a prior thread , so before i put the case away in storage i want to remove all the cylinder case studs . I have the proper tool and read Waynes recommendation (pelican man ).
    What pearls of wisdom can you give me on how this should be done ?
    - max pressure applied
    - should i use a impact gun as per waynes advice
    - how can i be sure not to crack the case ?
    John Gausden
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  2. #2
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    Sounds like your set if you pre oil, have the collet tool and good heat source to heat case not stud. Impact gun would be my tool of LAST resort. You chances of cracking case are nil, breaking stud off practically nil if they are not corroded too badly and you used rust penetrant a day or so prior.
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  3. #3
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    John

    I have done dozens of cases...here's my process;

    I use the Snap-On collet tool with an impact gun.

    I snug the collet up with the impact gun set at 100 PSI with my adjustable wrench holding the collet holder.

    Then I release the adjustable wrench and give the collet one more shot with the impact wrench.

    If the stud tightens, then I will not need heat to remove the stud and I use the adjustable wrench without heat to remove the stud.

    If the stud does not tighten with the single shot from the impact gun, I get my map gas torch and heat the area inside the spigot next to the stud for around 5-8 minutes. This melts the Loctite sealant on the stud threads

    After heat, the adjustable wrench will work to remove the stud.

    Stud removal should be done slowly to minimize damage to the case threads
    Tom Butler
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  4. #4
    St-Classic.com advtracing's Avatar
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    Thanks guys , i will give it a try and advise .
    John Gausden
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  5. #5
    Another tip: I usually give the top of the collet tool a good, solid rap with a hammer to shock the loctite.
    -Marco
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  6. #6
    St-Classic.com advtracing's Avatar
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    well got home , gave it try and found the following;

    - soaked each one over night with gibs
    - the collett tool i have grabs the thread so it's damaged , but after 40 years and as i'm building a 2.5ltr you won't use them again anyway

    - using a plumbers gas torch heat the lower case area until the gib's starts to boil around the stud, continue for 5 seconds and then using a 1/2inch break bar apply solid pressure and they screw right out.

    Thanks for the info
    John Gausden
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  7. #7
    Hi Guys,
    I have been reading about Head stud removal, but haven‘t found anything about removing Head studs from a Magensium case which has time serts:

    2.2E 911/01 with Time serts and Dilavar (Not completyl threaded, black coated). I dont know how old the studs are, but I think the Motor Received a rebuild in the 90s. Some of the Stud coating is damaged/chiped.

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    Is the approach the same? Heat the case until the Loctite gets soft and Turn the stud out?
    What Happens to the time sert? Does it come out with the stud or will it stay in the housing?

    Thx
    Last edited by 911BW; 03-03-2021 at 12:29 AM.

  8. #8
    Member #226 R Gruppe Life Member #147
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    Unfortunately the insert will probably come out with the stud, maybe not all of them.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by gled49 View Post
    Unfortunately the insert will probably come out with the stud, maybe not all of them.
    Thank you! This means I would need new inserts as well, which I should be able to screw easily in?
    I was assuming they are time serts, in this case ist should Not be a problem to get new ones. Any opinion on wether These are time serts or something Else?

  10. #10
    Member #226 R Gruppe Life Member #147
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    Too hard to tell. The most common insert is the 14x2mm. Pelican has a discussion about potential problems with Time Serts used in the head stud application.

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