Rear Wheel Bearing How To

[merbesfield]

Can anyone point me to some detailed info on removing rear wheel bearings on the 68 SWB cars? The factory manual shows nothing. Thanks

[Alan.uk]

Hi,

In case a pic helps. We just push the bearings out. On a car in for recent works the centre spacer was missing and thus we had to make one.



HTH

Alan

[merbesfield]

Hi Alan,

Yes pictures always do help. The zinc plated parts in your pic. Has the axle stub just been slipped into the wheel hub in this pic? Is the large bearing shown in the front the outer bearing? Is the inner bearing (the expensive one) still inside the control arm shown in the picture. Also, where does the O ring go? Thanks, Mark

[304065]

Mark,

Here are some photos to help, I just did this a little while back.

http://www.early911sregistry.org/for...hlight=bearing

http://www.early911sregistry.org/for...ght=suspension

Ok, there are bearings on both sides, The small, expensive bearing goes on the inboard side as you can see in Alan's excellent photos. To get them out you:

Disassemble the parking brake mechanism making careful note of how it goes together so you can get the bloody thing back together again a couple months from now;

Remove the four M8 screws that hold the brake carrier/cover plate to the control arm. The recesses for these screws can be seen in Alan's pic.

OK, now you can remove the cotter pin and back off the nut. Back the nut off until the castle portion protrudes above the stub axle. Now take a soft face hammer, like a dead blow or a rubber hammer, and hit the nut square so the stub axle slides out of the hub. It may take a few whacks.

Make note of the spacer tube- the one that Alan had to fabricate. Do you notice which side is flat? That side must be installed in a particular orientation according to the FWM.

Once that's out you can use a punch from the inboard side to gently drive the large bearing out toward the outboard side. It only takes a couple taps, do not bugger the contact area.

Now to the inboard side. Take a pair of water pump pliers and remove the seal. You will be replacing the seal. If you don't remove it, you can't get the bearing out. Now gently slide the inner race out. Try not to destroy it, you may need it somehow. Now take your drift and gently tap the inner bearing out, you will probably destroy it in the process.

Clean everything, pack the bearings and reinstall.

If you plate your stub axles, as Alan and I did, be absolutely certain to have them baked after plating to avoid hydrogen embrittlement. The hydrochloric acid that is used to clean the parts and activate the surface for plating will allow hydrogen molecules to diffuse into the steel, weakening it. By how much, and whether below the failure threshold of the part I have not the faintest idea, but what I am certain of is that these parts are among the most highly stressed in the car, so take no chances. I actually had mine black zinc plated. The plating WILL reduce the tolerances between the parts, they are damn near an interference fit as it is, so be sure to pre-assemble the stub axle and hub before you insert them through your greasy, expensive bearings.

The o-ring goes between the outboard bearing and the retaining plate, you will see the groove once assembled.

Good luck! If you have any questions just ask, we are here to help.

[merbesfield]

304065, your description helps a lot. Sorry, I did not see your name, or I would have used that. A couple more questions about what you wrote. I am sure these could be answered by myself if I were in front of my project destroying it as I go, but here goes.

1. The spacer tube just slips out before starting to drive the outer bearing out?
2. Why will I need the inner race if the inner bearings are being replaced? How do I know if the inner bearings do need to be replaced? If they are still good, do I just grease them and reassemble with new outer bearing and seals? Preservation vs. Restoration is one of the questions.
3. I was wondering about the replating of the axle stub and fittament issues. Why replate it if it is not rusted, will not be seen and creates tollerance issues. What am I missing. I am plating other parts so it could be done, just want to know why.

Thanks for helping. I know that like all the other projects, once I do it once, I could do it again. This is just my first time.

[304065]

304065, your description helps a lot. Sorry, I did not see your name, or I would have used that. A couple more questions about what you wrote. I am sure these could be answered by myself if I were in front of my project destroying it as I go, but here goes.

1. The spacer tube just slips out before starting to drive the outer bearing out?
2. Why will I need the inner race if the inner bearings are being replaced? How do I know if the inner bearings do need to be replaced? If they are still good, do I just grease them and reassemble with new outer bearing and seals? Preservation vs. Restoration is one of the questions.
3. I was wondering about the replating of the axle stub and fittament issues. Why replate it if it is not rusted, will not be seen and creates tollerance issues. What am I missing. I am plating other parts so it could be done, just want to know why.

Thanks for helping. I know that like all the other projects, once I do it once, I could do it again. This is just my first time.

The spacer tube goes between the bearings. It will just fall out once the stub axle and hub are separated. It's pretty clear which side is the flat one.

Ideally you would measure the radial runout of the stub axle with a dial indicator, if there is excessive runout, i.e. it's wobbling, that's a pretty clear indication that the bearing has worn. I figured that they were the original bearings so I would just change them out while everything was apart.

It doesn't particularly need to be replated, in my case using black zinc was a way to ensure the right appearance and prevent corrosion from ever rearing its ugly head. When you bring one of these cars back from the edge of the scrap heap, the biggest concern is it ever rusting again, hence modern coatings where you can. That and about six cans of Wuerth cavity protection wax in every nook, cranny and confined space where moisture can accumulate.

[merbesfield]

I totally understand the rust protection thing. I am cutting all the rust out and going back with new steel and coatings like crazy. I am using Zero rust and seam sealer as much as possible. I also have the Wurth Body Wax sitting on the shelf for when I finish all the metal and paint. I was told Body Wax should be used after final paint is applied so there is no chance of paint contamination. Sorry to get off track here.