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Thread: good day in the shed - 911T to ST

  1. #1
    St-Classic.com advtracing's Avatar
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    good day in the shed - 911T to ST

    nothing like a solid day cleaning up some body work !!! there will not be a speck of rust on this if i have my way .
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    John Gausden
    Auckland, New Zealand

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  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    good work
    I've done the same (not an easy job i know !)
    your rear seat bases look clean , i've stopped the rust on mine, but they are pretty pitted !

    Car is living outside at the moment as i monitor its waterproof-ness .... even with new seals, it's leaking a little bit in heavy Sydney rain just onto the LHS passenger front footwell area, but very small. So overall, very pleased !

    How are your seats going John ?
    Paul

    1969 ex-South African RHD Tangerine 911T . 1970 ex-Southern Californian LHD Conda 911T 1955 Series 1 86" Land Rover (original Australian CKD very slowly re-building) 1987 W124 230e
    (long term paid up member)

  3. #3
    Nice work, John. Sure will look great once painted. Looks like you have new floor pans?

    Any ideas on what type of coating/paint you are going to use?

    Best regards,

    Brad
    Brad Davis
    RGruppe #691
    Early 911S #1547

  4. #4
    Senior Member VintageExcellen's Avatar
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    Nice and clean foundation. Can I ask what methods you are using to get the metal stripped to that condition?

  5. #5
    St-Classic.com advtracing's Avatar
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    hi paul , the reason the rear area looks so clean is that it's a complete regraft . i purchased a de-registered 74 targa with a clean rear end and grafted everything from the parcel tray to the rear floor. The seats are to one side at the moment as i have run out of room to get a sandblasting cab. in . i have purchased a shipping container to store one of the other cars and parts .should be back into those in the new year.

    brad - yep new floor pans etc.... 60% of this car has new or replacement panels

    Mark - long process , first i had the car partly sand blasted , then used a flapper disc on the angle grinder for the bulk , then go over every thing again with a twist wire brush on the angle grinder , then hand sand any "can't get to areas" and seal for now with paint grip. this body is still going for a hot dip at the end before being eched primed . there will be NO rust.
    John Gausden
    Auckland, New Zealand

    (shipping carson,CA)
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  6. #6
    Senior Member VintageExcellen's Avatar
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    Have anyone ever heard of problems with dipping a chassis and then later on having paint adhesion problems in certain areas?

    My hands are hurting thinking of all the hand labor there, ouch. I have a 66 912 that I have done the same treatment to however I am in Southern California with a local car so there was no metal work to do. I am about to spray Wurth SKS everywhere and cover the metal back up. It takes so much work to strip the inside of a car to this level. I have 2 more cars I need to strip like this, ugh.

  7. #7
    St-Classic.com advtracing's Avatar
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    for me it's like zen time , you just get into a routine and think on stuff plus the big bonus you get to know every inch of the car
    John Gausden
    Auckland, New Zealand

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    Early911nz.org
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    "Funding my obsession one nut at a time"

  8. #8
    Mark,
    I have never dipped a chassis but have had all the panels dipped with great results, you just have to be mindfull of drying everything quickly and clean very well; I would have any reservations about doing a chassis and it is less harsh than blasting.
    Eric

  9. #9
    St-Classic.com advtracing's Avatar
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    drying the car quickly is the key , once out and rinsed it's straight into a paint oven for 12 hours .
    John Gausden
    Auckland, New Zealand

    (shipping carson,CA)
    Early911nz.org
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    "Funding my obsession one nut at a time"

  10. #10
    St-Classic.com advtracing's Avatar
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    6 hours on the dash ...........i need a life
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    John Gausden
    Auckland, New Zealand

    (shipping carson,CA)
    Early911nz.org
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    "Funding my obsession one nut at a time"

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