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Thread: what kind of oil?

  1. #1

    what kind of oil?

    what kind of oil should i use for my 69 Porsche? i was told to get 25-50. is that correct if so what brand?


  2. #2
    Senior Member 911T1971's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    20W-50 I have. Castrol or Motorex.
    (Keep in mind to control oil level wile engine is actually running, car on horizontal stand).

    "...In general, newer vehicles will specify lower viscosity oils such as 5W-30 while older vehicles will specify higher viscosity oils such as 20W-50. This is because today's engines are built with tighter bearing clearances to take advantage of the fuel economy benefits of lower viscosity oils. It is not really a good idea to use thicker oil in one of these engines because it will disrupt the oil flow characteristics of the engine and may create excessively high oil pressure.
    In an older engine that was designed with larger bearing clearances, it is appropriate and recommended to use a thicker oil (i.e. 20W-50) to maintain proper oil pressure and provide adequate bearing film thickness. This is also true for engines that have a lot of miles on them and the oil pressure is starting to drop off. By using higher viscosity oil, you can boost the oil pressure back to normal levels and increase bearing film strength."

    Read more:
    Last edited by 911T1971; 11-21-2010 at 11:58 AM.
    Registry member No.773

  3. #3
    In the US, most use Brad Penn. The regulations mean that many oils that used to be good like Castrol GTX are now bad. Tehy do not have enough Zinc and Phosphorous anti-wear additives. GTX is just bad oil anyway since it has poor base stock and shears/thins out very quickly.

    I use Brad Penn 20W50 (it is called racing oil).
    1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened
    Early 911S Registry Member #425

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Portland, OR
    Use a high quality 20W-50 oil. Some to consider: Valvoline VR-1, Brad Penn, and Kendall GT. My engine builder tell me to avoid Castrol as, while it starts out ok, it rapidly degrades in air cooled service.

    Be very careful of what you use because, unlike the old days, oil IS NOT, oil.

    Most important is ensuring that the oil you use has enough of the antiwear additives and decent detergent package to ensure you do not see premature wear on your cams and other parts subject to high pressures.

    Sadly, oil is no longer just oil. Due to Government and car maker pressures, the newer oils are now being formulated to not only lubricate your engine but also be "energy efficient", protect catalytic converters and allow for extended oil change intervals. These changes have been made at the expense of some lubrication needs of older engine that result in reduced engine longetivity.

    You can read the to get the full story.

    Cliff notes go like this:

    Quote Originally Posted by HarryD
    Older engines (pre-mid 90's) need high levels (around 1200 ppm plus correct level of detergents) of Zinc (Zn) and Phosphorus (P) to protect cams and other high pressure surfaces.

    With the introduction of roller tappets in most engines by the mid-90's, this requirement is relaxed and Zn and P levels can be reduced. The EPA pressured API to reduce the Zn and P levels to (hopefully) extend the life of the catalytic converter which is poisoned by Zn and P. They complied.

    Use 20W-50 or 15W-40 oil. Recommended brands, in no particular order, include:

    Brad Penn 20W-50
    Valvoline VR-1 20W-50
    Kendall GT 20W-50
    SWEPCO 15W-40

    There are others as well.
    Steve Weiner offers these thoughts:

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve@Rennsport

    Assuming that Porsche owners wish to stay informed and educated about an important topic, I've clipped a press release from JGibbs Racing about some changes coming in Sept.

    Its no cause for panic or concern for people already using a good product in their 911's, but may be something to consider for those who haven't.


    In 2004, API SM/GF-4 licensed oils hit the marketplace, and about 12 months later, articles and technical bulletins began to appear warning consumers of the risks of using low Zinc/Phosphorus API SM/GF-4 rated oils in flat tappet engines.

    Today, the word is out – motor oils have changed. In 2010, passenger car engine oils change again, and heavy duty diesel trucks get catalytic converters.

    This time, consider yourself forewarned.

    API SN – ILSAC GF-5 licensed oil will hit the shelves in October of 2010, and this new oil specification places greater emphasis on protecting catalytic converters than previous oil standards. While this is good news for emissions, improved catalytic converter life has proven to be detrimental to flat-tappet camshaft life.

    Another change associated with API SN/ILSAC GF-5 oils will be greater fuel economy performance. This improvement in fuel economy will be achieved by increased use of polymers called Viscosity Modifiers. These polymers help a “thin” oil act “thicker” under low stress conditions. While the liberal use of polymers helps improve fuel economy in passenger car engines, race engines produce shear stresses that can “tear” these polymers. When these polymers are sheared, your oil losses viscosity, and that can lead to increased wear.

    More than ever before, engine builders, racers and hot rodders need to be aware that API rated products are “compromised” due to Passenger Car OEM requirements for improved catalytic converter life, fuel economy, and engine cleanliness.

    To achieve these goals, oil marketers must reduce the Phosphorus, Sulfur and Zinc levels in their oils (.08), and they must use more polymers and aggressive detergents. While these changes are good for modern low rpm, overhead cam engines, older push rod engines and high RPM race engines need lubricants with higher levels of Phosphorus, Sulfur and Zinc as well as lower levels of polymers and detergents.

    You don’t need to worry. You just need to choose the correct type of oil for your application.

    Just keep using a product containing 1100-1200ppi of Zinc & Phosphorus and you'll be just fine.

    Member #789
    1970 VW Sunroof Kombi Bus - "The Magic Bus"
    1973.5 911T Targa for fun - "Smokey"
    2009 MB C300

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    35,000 ft
    +1 brad penn, just ordered 3 cases with expensive shipping, their prices were a bargain
    looking for 1972 911t motor XR584, S/N 6121622

  6. #6
    Senior Member John Z Goriup's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Eagle, Idaho
    You may wish to log onto this site

    and read the thorough and useful paper on currently available motor oils, which additives are important, etc., written by Dr. Charles Navarro ( principal, L & N Engineering, Naperville, IL ).

    It should answer most of your questions.

    Before it became Ruprecht, my Porsche was a '70 911 T

    Paying member No. 895 since 2006

    " slavish adherence to originality wasn't for me, because the car wasn't as good as it could be."
    Rob Dickinson's response when asked what motivated him to build Singers

  7. #7
    S w e p c o
    1966 911 #304065 Irischgruen

  8. #8
    For "too much information", this is a fun, related thread:
    Peter Kane

    '72 911S Targa
    Message Board Co-Moderator - Early 911S Registry #100

  9. #9
    Is anyone running full synthetic oil like Mobil 1 in an early car?

  10. #10
    I've been using Amsoil 20W/50 for quite a few years. One of our local members is a rep. In my 73S on a hot day, oil temps 210deg I get much better oil pressure at idle than with Valvoline VR-1 dino oil. I also use Amsoil in my 64 Beetle. Porsche gets slight seepage at nose bearing, Beetle has a few more slight leaks, however, both did this also with Valvoline. I also believe oil temps down due to Amsoil.

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