I am tearing apart a 68 long block. The left cam has a snout (and bearing) to drive a smog pump (see picture). Is it possible to loosen the nut w/o a crow foot? Does the (later than 66) workshop manual describe the procedure?
Thanks for sharing
Richard
Last edited by preS; 12-21-2010 at 08:54 AM.
Bump, picture add.
I would appreciate ideas on how to remove / loosen the cam nut w/o the crow foot (I normally use a 46 mm socket)
Richard
Ummm... obvious question: do you NEED to keep the smog pump (for originality or other (??) purposes) ?? I went through this with my '68 L. I wanted to ditch the smog pump anyway. so solved the problem by cutting off the shaft extension with a hack saw. Braze the air injectors, machine a nice-looking cover plate for the chain housing, and you are done. I know - it sounds nasty, but not a problem if you are careful to leave enough snout for adjusting the cams and tightening the nut later.Originally Posted by 304678
- MR
That is an option that I have. I don't need the smog snout. How hard was it to cut it?
Richard
Richard,
Don't cut that cam. 68 cars are the second hardest to restore only to 64 IMHO- the reason is, all the one year only parts are gone. One of these days somebody's going to be trying to get all the points with a 68 and a cam like that will be valuable. I've never, ever seen one before.
If you pull the bearing with a bearing puller the standard 46mm crows foot wrench will work, plenty of clearance around the nose of the cam. For the cam itself, do I see flats on it?
1966 911 #304065 Irischgruen
Richard,
Where are you; I have one you could borrow. PM me.
I'll defer to the guy(s) who tell you not to cut off the cam extension and I understand why they say that, but you'll either have to live with the pulley to nowhere, the spinning cam snout sans pulley, or reinstall the smog pump which takes power to run, takes up room in the engine bay, and is one more thing you'll have to work around when you are back there. Oh yeah, there's also the additional oil seal which might someday leak.
Personally, I think those options are less attractive unless you are dead-set on creating an originality contender. I don't know how hard it would be to track down a camshaft without the extension (ROW ??), or if you could use one with the same grind from another early engine to avoid cutting this one down?
In direct answer to your question - surprisingly easy. The metal is relatively soft. I think I read that only the cam lobes are hardened. Perhaps the bearing surfaces also.
- MR
Last edited by MountainRoads; 12-21-2010 at 08:16 PM.
Yes, the cam should have the standard flats on it.
- MR
When I disassembled my spare 68 motor I just used the standard crow foot and holder socket. Crow foot broke but nut came off. Cams including long snout are in storage. Oh, someone also made a cover that attaches over the hole on the cam cover.....looks like a cast iron plumbing cap of some sort! I plan on rebuilding this motor for my 68 911, it's only 345 higher in number than the original motor from my 68 and it is a 901/17 just like my car originally was, but now it's 902/1 afmsx. Oh, also my original motor would have been AL and my spare is mag. Lighter.
I go with the side that says don't cut. I've done the cam timing on my 68 sporto and its not a problem if you have the two special tools. Cam timing is something that needs to be done from time to time so it might be worthwhile to go ahead a buy the 46mm crowfoot and cam holder. On the other hand if you don't intend to hang onto this engine for a long time, then borrow the tools. Get the job done, put it back together and just don't put the belt on the pulley. Its not a question of USA/ROW. Its closer to a question of 68sporto/rest of production.
And of course in the final analysis the choice is yours so you get to make up your mind. Which ever you chose you'll still find help here.
Tony
68 Sporto Project
2016 Boxster
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