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Thread: 67 front strut disassembly

  1. #1
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    67 front strut disassembly

    Hi I finally got the rear spring plates off now I need help with the rear torsion bar removal.
    I also needed some help with the seperation of the front strut from the A arm I didn't want to damage the ball joint.
    Thanks in advance for the help.
    Gerry

  2. #2
    Front strut: bend back the lock tabs, apply copious penetrating oil (PB Blaster) to the recesses for the screws, and remove the screws. Not complex.

    The rear torsion bars should come out with the spring plates, if they are stuck in the inner receiver, you should use a slide hammer to pull them out.
    1966 911 #304065 Irischgruen

  3. #3
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    Talking slide hammer?

    Quote Originally Posted by 304065 View Post
    Front strut: bend back the lock tabs, apply copious penetrating oil (PB Blaster) to the recesses for the screws, and remove the screws. Not complex.

    The rear torsion bars should come out with the spring plates, if they are stuck in the inner receiver, you should use a slide hammer to pull them out.
    Thanks where do I get a slide hammer?
    I removed the wedge bolt on the front strut supported the strut with a jack and used a rubber mallet to try and sererate the a-arm with no success.
    I will try the excess of penetrating oil, just thought there might be a special tool for the seperation.

  4. #4
    Wedge bolts are LWB. Stop everything, take some photos and show us what you have.
    1966 911 #304065 Irischgruen

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by 304065 View Post
    Wedge bolts are LWB. Stop everything, take some photos and show us what you have.
    OK here are some potos of what I have.
    Thanks for the input.
    Gerry
    Attached Images Attached Images      

  6. #6
    I believe that to be a LWB strut. SWB have a ball joing that is hold w/ 2 bolts.

    For this ball joint you need a special tool. It's like a big socket.

    Richard

  7. #7
    BTW smart you posted pictures before using a hamer .. ;-)

    Richard

  8. #8
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    I wonder why this swb car would have a lwb strut.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by plumber View Post
    I wonder why this swb car would have a lwb strut.
    Check the price/availability of SWB ball joints.

    1969-89 control arms, crossmembers, brakes, steering racks and struts are a "value priced" upgrade.

    johnt

  10. #10
    Hi there,

    The front a-arms you have there are the 1974 onwards version. Ball joints, even the SWB ones are not that expensive and if possible I would change them. To remove the strut from the ball joint the ball joint is pulled downwards, if stuck use a ball joint splitter. To remove the ball joint itself either buy the correct tool to remove the castle nut, but even with this, if you only have hand tools it may be stuck. We have impact air guns which make light work of those. Next option is get a large punch or chisel and hammer to remove. Fit a new ball joint, the ones you needs are the 1972 onwards version. Plus use a new castle nut and locking washer. It might even be worth fitting turbo tie rods while you are there. Also the tab for the brake flexi line looks damaged.

    The rear- if stuck on the torsion bar? Remove the torsion bar inspection plate from the rear wing. Pull the spring plate and stuck torsion bar out so you can see the end. Drill a hole in the spring plate end cover, thus you can see the end of the torsion bar. Brace the inside of the spring plate against the chassis and then using a punch knock the torsion bar out. We make new covers to replace the end cover but you can just use a relevant rubber seal. Clean all the splines out before re-fitting and use some grease. The torsion bars should be able to slide in and out, no real force should be required to fit them.

    HTH

    Alan

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