door gaskets

[climbernyc]

replaced the tubular late gasket with the early solid foam repro from sieera madre today, in hopes of reducing or elim wind noise.. Very tight fit and edge of door actually sticks out v slightly. Has anyone else used these? do they settle in and if so, how long did it take?

Thanks!

Eric

[edmayo]

I've used the early repro style seal from Stoddard, my guess is they are the same source, but rather than making the door stick out, I actually was able to get the striker plate adjusted a little further in to help make the door a more flush fit with the body. Door also shut easier with these seals.

[climbernyc]

Thanks Ed. Hope you are well!

[classic]

Not trying to hijack the thread, but Ed do you find the reproduction seals better then the later tube style seal?

Just about to start putting the car back together and getting all my seals together, wondering which way to go.

[edmayo]

From a sealing standpoint the tubular seals work just fine, right at the wind leak area where the window frame meets the front edge of the door, I usually have to cut the seal and insert a foam rubber filler. On the earlier type seal I sometimes have to insert some jute packing behind the seal to space it out some. Interestingly Porsche actually had a part number for that piece. If this is a practical street driver I'd go with the newer seals, they come ready to install. The repro of the old style requires you do some cutting to length and gluing a miter corner together at the top rear edge of the door. I use the old style where originality is important, concour judging or personal taste. If you need some pictures I will try to create some for you.

[classic]

thanks for the quick reply, my car's not a concours type so i think the latter tube type will be fine.

Cheers

Tony

[blucille]

turns out, I put the seal in backwards......

[edmayo]

Well at least you figured it out....I can't tell you how many 356 hood seals I've seen installed backwards!! As you can now see, the seal is designed so that any air trying to get in will make the seal open up to seal tighter. All part of the learning experience

[smedley]

Have installed in two restorations. If you want to eliminate wind noise you probably should have stuck with the tubulars and spacers the later cars have. However, they should not force the door or frame out.....you don't have them properly fitted into the metal channel...or something like trim material is in the channel.

If you have wind noise, usually at the top, front corner, watch the door frame closely......if it is vibrating, you need to carefully, but firmly bring the frame in.....knee on door window sill and tug/pull on frame at top...."body shop adjustment."

Sounds crude, but it's what the dealers did back in the day! I watched them "adjust" (and fix!) the wind whistle on my then new '70 T.

[smedley]

Ed,

On my two ORIGINAL ''69s.....the top rear joint was not mitered. They both had butt joints...the top, horizontal runs to the corner, and the vertical butts up to the horizontal piece at 90 degrees.