Recommendations from the" Community of SWB Scholars"

[mshaver51]

the text below is re-copied from a previous thread about the finishes for the luggage compartment:

Mark, the honest truth is that the gloss level of the black varies among the different parts, depending on the supplier. That said, most total restorations have all the part in the same black, you will have to experiment with various degrees of deglosser to get the right match.

Of course the chassis was black schuetz over bare steel and then black over that. These days we put anticorrosion primer over the bare steel to seal it, then schuetz, then black to get the color right.
Two questions:

1.) Does the community have a preference or suggestion as to the type and color of the 'anti-corrosion' primer?
2.) Is "schutz" the preferred coating, or are there others that are recommended (& why)?

Thank you.

ms

[304065]

the text below is re-copied from a previous thread about the finishes for the luggage compartment:

Mark, the honest truth is that the gloss level of the black varies among the different parts, depending on the supplier. That said, most total restorations have all the part in the same black, you will have to experiment with various degrees of deglosser to get the right match.

Of course the chassis was black schuetz over bare steel and then black over that. These days we put anticorrosion primer over the bare steel to seal it, then schuetz, then black to get the color right.
Two questions:

1.) Does the community have a preference or suggestion as to the type and color of the 'anti-corrosion' primer?
2.) Is "schutz" the preferred coating, or are there others that are recommended (& why)?

Thank you.

ms

Can I start the dialogue, given that I am the author of the above (including my misspelling of the German word "Schutz" for protection, with "Schuetz" for "switch")

1) We used PPG DPLF epoxy primer with some flattening agent in it for my car; and
2) When we talk about "schutz" what we really mean is Wuerth SKS stoneguard, color black. It actually comes out of the gun a very dark blue and dries black. It is water based. It is best applied with a professional gun, which has adjustments for air flow, product flow and atomization. The gun is made in Italy. You will need about 12 bottles of SKS at about $24 a pop.

Hope this helps

[mshaver51]

304065,
It was not my intent to exclude anyone from offering wisdom for my project, so "thank you" for your contribution! Those were precisely the types of specific suggestions that I was seeking.

Two follow-up questions:

1.) I'm a bit nervous about the concern for the 'pattern' of the schutz? Is that really an issue? My goal is a fun driver, rather than a trailer queen, and I'd like to do as much as possible myself (and I have no idea what the "proper pattern" looks like.

2.) Does your estimate of 12 bottles of schutz cover the entire car, or just the front luggage compartment?

Thank you, yet again.

ms

[304065]

304065,
It was not my intent to exclude anyone from offering wisdom for my project, so "thank you" for your contribution! Those were precisely the types of specific suggestions that I was seeking.

Two follow-up questions:

1.) I'm a bit nervous about the concern for the 'pattern' of the schutz? Is that really an issue? My goal is a fun driver, rather than a trailer queen, and I'd like to do as much as possible myself (and I have no idea what the "proper pattern" looks like.

2.) Does your estimate of 12 bottles of schutz cover the entire car, or just the front luggage compartment?

Thank you, yet again.

ms

The "pattern" of schutz is one of two things: sandpaper, like the SWB cars (except the Karmann cars) or waves, like the LWB cars (and Karmann SWB). I can't really explain what these look like other than to refer you to examples of each type in person so you can see and feel the difference.

Getting the pattern right is really a concours thing--even the factory stopped using schutz on the top of the trunk with the LWB cars. If you are doing a driver and take things to bare metal, it's perfectly OK in my book to paint the trunk and engine compartment with DPLF followed by satin black-- it will look the same from a distance and weigh less as well as providing a VERY sanitary appearance. Bob Tilton did this to his trunk and the results speak for themselves, spectacular. If you later decided that you wanted to go the full concours route you could always shoot over it. I do everything up front like I'm never going back.

Anyway, 12 bottles of schutz get used all over the car, not just the trunk-- you must precisely tape off those areas where the factory did not use schutz, then shoot-- the trunk, the entire pan, up inside the fender wells, in the engine compartment, around the rear seat area, etc. The best way to figure this out is to look at photos of a stripped, unrestored car, so you can see where they stopped and started. I think they used a combination of tape and cardboard or metal templates back in the day, to prevent the schutz from adhering to areas such as where the springblades sit. You get the idea.

If I were doing a lightweight or race car I would just shoot the DPLF and call it cool. This will strongly resemble the satin black of the early race cars.

[mshaver51]

304065,

Thank you very much! I will begin research on the areas to be masked and will probably use schutz, rather than paint.

Out of curiosity, do any of the pre-mixed chassis paints afford the correct amount of "flat?" (i.e., eastwood chassis black?)

Thank you, once again.

mike shaver

[edmayo]

I've used the Eastwood chassis blacks, and to my eye they are very good.

[304065]

I've used the Eastwood chassis blacks, and to my eye they are very good.

I have a can of SEM trim black, it's the water based 39144. People complain about the reformulation in the purple can but that's just people. I plan to use this over my freshly cadmium plated hinge bolts!