Cavity Wax for the upcoming winter

[oscillon]

Hey All,

I recently purchased a california survivor 912 that I plan to use a daily driver here on the Right coast. Considering this car has zero floorboard/body rust I'd hate to destroy it by not taking any precautions visa-vie rain & etc.

Has anyone used any of the cavity wax products (3m wurth & etc) to protect the areas within the doors and fender regions? If so, what do you recommend as a rust prevention tactic (other than keep it in the garage).

Dan

[304065]

I bought six cans of Wuerth cavity wax. It stinks, it's fairly thin, it dries brown. Spray it everywhere.

A significant danger: cars that have lived in dry climates their entire lives, but not rusted, will immediately crumble into dust when exposed to a hostile climate. The undercoating on SWB cars in particular was applied over bare metal, and as a result, moisture permeation over the decades has rusted the underlying metal underneath the undercoat. To properly treat these areas, you should remove the old undercoat, remove the surface rust, then apply some modern etching primer and schutz over that. Then put cavity wax all over everything.

[Fishcop]

I bought six cans of Wuerth cavity wax. It stinks, it's fairly thin, it dries brown. Spray it everywhere.

Are any particular tools needed? How do you get it deep into the rear box sections?

Cheers

[boxster03]

call these guys and discuss your questions about their product and application. There maybe an application professional in the DC area

Waxoyl Direct Line
802-662-8062

You might also want to consider Ziebart

http://www.ziebart.com/

[304065]

Are any particular tools needed? How do you get it deep into the rear box sections?

Cheers

The cans come with a short nozzle and a long nozzle. You need a hole about 2mm wide to get the long nozzle through. It's a liquid, you shoot it high, it runs low. Be sure to put some cardboard under the car when you do this, you will have brown puddles where the excess runs. It will go to the same places that water goes.

I guess if you really wanted a long nozzle you could get one of the purpose built long ones, snake it inside and empty the can. Try Eastwood for these.

I bought everything from the guy at Goodspeed Motoring, he was great to deal with and had the best price on the Wuerth cavity wax. http://www.goodspeedmotoring.com/wur...ion-spray.html

[304065]

call these guys and discuss your questions about their product and application. There maybe an application professional in the DC area

Waxoyl Direct Line
802-662-8062

You might also want to consider Ziebart

http://www.ziebart.com/

I considered this briefly until the idea of somebody other than me approaching my car with a step drill to put holes in the panels for the process discouraged me.

[merbesfield]

I bought six cans of Wuerth cavity wax. It stinks, it's fairly thin, it dries brown.

Have you done this yet? Just wanted an update if you have.

[304065]

Oh yeah. I went to town on the car with the long spout, still have three cans left. Basically everywhere water can pool-- inside the headlight buckets, inside the bumperettes, inside the rear of the bumpers. Up in the trunk is where you can really get down-- in the gas tank support, in the longitudinals up there where the gas tank rests.

I didn't do the rockers just yet because I still need to Schutz them, so I don't want any wax there. But everywhere else. If you mess up it comes off easily. It's easily removed during concours prep so if you make a mistake and get some someplace, it comes off with P21S Total Auto Wash. When the rockers are schutzed it's easy enough to see where to do it-- the Factory left giant gaps around the jack tube. Get in there with the long nozzle and spray until stuff starts dripping out.

[uai]

Hi there
Oldtimer Markt, a German Classic Car magazine has tested all available options in a really scientific way with long term tests and salt spray and so on and so on.
Best result was always Mike Sanders. It's no wax it is Grease.
It needs some equipment and preparation to effectively apply it, as it has to be applied hot. So you need a hairdryer with a tube to preheat the nozzle of your pressure cup spray gun (it pas to be with pressure cup) , an electric water kettle to heat the grease, a well prepared car (don't let the stuff cool off) and the ability to live with grease spot draining out of your car when it's sitting in the sun as the stuff gets everywhere when it gets warm.

[tfiv]

No amount of wax, grease, whatever will protect the car (especially swb) from salt. Buy a winter beater, or view the premium paid for a clean car a "sunk" cost.