Project 911 Help

[Richardnew]

Back in 1992 I built a 1973 911T for European Car magazine. I still have that car. I haven't done much with it since 1992 except drive it. Ok, I added the French headlighs and the ttg lights on the front but not much else.

It's time to revisit this car. It's going to be a street car with very limited track use. Or, it might be a track car with very limited street use. I'm still not sure on that one.

All of the original articles are here.

What would you do with this car?

Richard Newton
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[72targa]

That's easy...street car with very limited track use...it's barely a race car but a cool looking street car...recent pics?

[Richardnew]

Here are the tires. I got a super deal on these last year. I'm running 6" on the front and 7" Fuchs on the rear. I've always used 205/55-16 on all four corners and never had any issues.
Attachment 200594

Richard Newton

[Richardnew]

I've had this Weltmeister strut brace on my 911 since '92. I've run numerous track events and Solo 2 events since that time. I've never had a problem with it.

The Urban Legend is that these are terrible and that you need to cut a larger hole where the strut goes through the bracket. Has anyone actually had a problem with this? I don't mean that you heard about this problem but rather you actually had a problem on your own 911.

[edmayo]

Not heard of this, so what was the supposed problem?

[Flieger]

It is a fact that the strut top needs to tilt such that the threaded piece you see moves inward or outwards. This is part of normal suspension motion. As the strut compresses and the A-arm's motion pushes the ball joint further outwards, so the strut leans more. This means the negative camber increases.

If you restrict the top of the strut from moving as the Weltmeister does, then the only ways the suspension can move are by bending the strut brace plate, bending the threaded piece of the damper piston rod, or by not moving and simply allowing the tire to do all the suspension work. In reality it would be a combination of all of these.

There are several pictures of failed Weltmeister bars. The crack around that strut rod tip since that is where all the force is being applied.

I have no idea what kind of idiot designed that. Maybe he was just a scheister who wanted people to keep buying new Weltmeister bars after they break, just out of the warrenty period.

You will notice that the proper way to do this involves a spherical bearing such that the strut can pivot any way it wants but so that that pivot point does not move very much at all when compared to a rubber bushing.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/max_911_fahrer/5400232068/" title="911S Snake afternoon Fahren 010 by Max_911S_fahrer, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5173/5400232068_9bbf4b9618_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="911S Snake afternoon Fahren 010"></a>

[edmayo]

Makes sense,thanks

[Richardnew]

I get it now. As is usually the case the factory strut bar was the correct way to do it. Porsche engineers weren't stupid.

Richard Newton
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[Richardnew]

Here are a few shots of the car at Homestead a few years back.





Richard Newton