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Thread: Replace brake line through center tunnel

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Stockholm/Sweden
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    467

    Thumbs down Replace brake line through center tunnel

    Yesterday while dropping the front suspension on my black SWB I messed up and broke the brake line where it attached to the T-connection, it left an inch out of the tunnel and Im afraid there ainīt a quick fix..

    Is it tough to replace? I did the floors last winter so I know the internals, held up by two "hooks" inside of the tunnel and held up by rubber bushings on the in and outlet. Canīt remember if they are accessible thorugh the shifter hole and gear linkage hole in the tunnel though? Im dropping the engine/tranny anyway so I will have space in front and rear..

    Anu thoughts?

    Kind regards
    Porsche 935 DP1 Zirkelbach
    930/10
    Resale red

    Porsche 911, 1971
    2.5L on Webers
    Silvermetallic

  2. #2
    #2264 classic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Gold Coast.
    Posts
    1,324
    Recently replaced mine not hard at all, feed it in from the front or back with someone inside the car guiding it through the tunnel. 5 minute job with someone helping.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Stockholm/Sweden
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    467
    Thanks for the heads up!

    Went loco on myself for breaking it, often itīs those minor things that eat up all of your time, glad this wasnīt one of em, have plenty of em anyways =)
    Porsche 935 DP1 Zirkelbach
    930/10
    Resale red

    Porsche 911, 1971
    2.5L on Webers
    Silvermetallic

  4. #4
    Jesse,

    I pulled a new tunnel brake line in my '58 Speedster by using the old fish method.

    I cut the old line at the front bulkhead with just enough line to thread the inside with 4mm threads.....did the same with the new line, and cut the head off a 20mmX4MM screw to make it a stud.

    threaded the two lines together, and by slowly and carefully pulling and pushing "fished the new line through every one of the bent tabs and rubber wraps!!

    Put some silicone paste on the new line as it goes in.

    Was able to get to each end with my flairing tool...viola!

    Rear access with the engine and tranny in would be OK for just pulling, but tight for cutting and flairing....so.....just pull it long at the back so you have room for the flair, then pull it back to the front. Front access should not be tight for cutting and flairing.
    Mark Smedley
    '59 VW Typ I
    '69 911T 2.7
    '86 930
    '04 GT3
    '16 Boxster GTS
    '08 MBZ AMG CLK 63 Black Series

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Stockholm/Sweden
    Posts
    467
    Thans for the great info Mark!!

    Really appreciate it, will get it done after Iīve performed exorcism on some bondo I found while inspecting today.

    Kind regards
    Porsche 935 DP1 Zirkelbach
    930/10
    Resale red

    Porsche 911, 1971
    2.5L on Webers
    Silvermetallic

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