best jack stand placement on 71 911S Targa

[redcar]

I searched forum but could not find a thread on where would be best location to place jack stands under my 1971 911S Targa -- thanks for any help.

Bob

[RSTarga]

Depends on what area you need access to but if your lifting the whole car I usually put them at the lower suspension pickup points with a pad so as not to damage anything. The outside of the rear torsion bars are a good point that give you plenty of access.

[M_deJong]

Here's what I do:

Light duty rear work - ends of the torsion bar covers
Heavy duty rear work - torsion bar tube just inboard of the chassis rails
Light duty front work - front ends of the control arms under the reinforcing caps
Heavy duty front work - ends of the front cross member (i.e. rear of control arm)

[911pcars]

Here's what I do:

Light duty rear work - ends of the torsion bar covers
Heavy duty rear work - torsion bar tube just inboard of the chassis rails
Light duty front work - front ends of the control arms under the reinforcing caps
Heavy duty front work - ends of the front cross member (i.e. rear of control arm)

Good. +1

Sherwood

[redcar]

David, Mike and Sherwood -- thanks for the info and advice. On a related topic -- in addition to the side jacking pockets, is it also OK to jack up the car by placing a floor jack in these same places as indicated for the jack stands?

Bob

[M_deJong]

Yes, but they aren't the best places. Especially the front of the front control arms is not flat/level and its easy for the jack to slide. The rear of the control arm under the cross member is safer. Or the center of the front cross member if your pan is good. Use a 2x4 to spread the load.

I don't like jacking under the rear torsion bar cover, to close to the body panel and its round. I usually jack under the rear control arm to get the car up and then place jack stands under the torsion bar cover.

Be careful and stop if it doesn't look or feel right. You don't want the car falling, and certainly not on you!

I wonder if others aren't chiming in because of liability fears? Anyway, I'm not responsible if you drop your car, agreed?

[911pcars]

David, Mike and Sherwood -- thanks for the info and advice. On a related topic -- in addition to the side jacking pockets, is it also OK to jack up the car by placing a floor jack in these same places as indicated for the jack stands?

Bob

Okay. This is MHO and doesn't represent what is commonly done, but it minimizes denting the floor pan or reducing the OD of any oil or AC lines in the vicinity. In addition, lifting the complete front or rear end is quicker and safer compared to lifting each side or corner alternately to the desired height. That said:

At the front, if the ride height is sufficient, I suggest using a 2x4, cut to span the distance of the front torsion bar covers, then with a floor jack at the middle of the 2x4, lift the entire front end. Place jack stands under each end of the 2x4. Shake car to confirm stability after loading any jack stand.

For the more ambitious DIYer, install a spacer to span the distance between the front crossmember and the metal shield below it. Use aluminum flat stock and attach accordingly. This insertion piece creates a solid connection between the shield and the crossmember and allows a floor jack (with wood pad to prevent denting) to lift directly under the shield. Paint or mark a target on the shield to identify the correct lift location.

The rear is a little more problematic.
Many owners, including pro technicians, use the engine crankcase as a lift point. I don't agree with that method. In addition, the factory suggests not to. YMMV. I just don't like the thought of concentrating 60% of the car weight on a 6" area of the crankcase, with or without a phone book, hockey puck or other device to "spread the load" (they don't).

I lift at the gearbox mount with a block of wood in between. This probably creates some issues too with the lift weight bearing on the front mounts, but so does lifting at the engine or from any point supported by the engine and gearbox mounts which would spread the load to all 4 mounts but runs counter to my no-lift zone.

Your current ride height may not allow direct access to the locations above without an initial lift to gain access. I do this with a second jack. Lift one side at the factory jack point (use an aftermarket jack insert device), just high enough to slide a floor jack in place. After lifting, use Mike's suggested locations for jack stand placement.

Remember. The difference between a working hydraulic jack and rapid descent is a $.05 O-ring. This is the same effect:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/OKfqjA6mhGo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Again, MHO
Sherwood

[HarryD]

Over at the bird, Bill Verberg posted this:

X's for lifting O's(and X's for stands), there are others, the Os are almost impossible to get a jack on

In this thread: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...lp-urgent.html

[redcar]

More thanks for the additional info on jacking, the "bottom view" picture, and the great links! I have owned my 1971 911S Targa for 31 years -- drove it a bunch for many years, but haven't driven much over the last few -- and finally it is time to get it actively back on the road. But before I do I am trying to go through the main systems to make sure I don't cause any damage in its "reawakening". Thought I would share a picture (hope this works!)

Bob