Jackstands placement question for suspension bushing R&R

[zenithblue71T]

Hi all, I have a fairly stock 1971 911T that I've driven for 10 years and it's about time to replace practically every suspension bushing. As far as I know, all the bushings are all original except for the rear sway bar bushings which Bauer in Oakland replaced last year.

I've decided to remove my front A arms, rear trailing arms and rear spring plates and drop them off at Elephant Racing to have them powdercoated and new OEM rubber bushings installed. I want to remove the above mentioned parts myself. I have 4 jackstands, one 2 ton jack and the porsche 911 jackstand adapter (the bar with the flat circle). The question is, If I remove all the above items, how and where do I safely place the jackstands to remove said items. Also, shouldn't i do the torsion bar bushings too? Thank you all.

[zenithblue71T]

hey guys, any suggestions here would be appreciated.

Alternatively, if I just wanted to remove the A Arms, where would I put the jack stands? Thanks!

[edmayo]

The rears go under the torsion bar housing, the fronts go right next to the pinch weld where the inner fender panel turns to go forward, with a block of wood so as to not bend the floor pan.

[hoffman912]

Yup.. what ed said. here are some pics that might help (im a visual person so pics always work best for me). I used a very large board i had laying around (i think a 2x8?) to lay across the width of the pan at the front (where ed mentions at the pinch welds/seams) and had jack stands under it.. i would probably go with something thicker next time like a 4x4 post.

[HarryD]

Looks like your basic question has been answered but I find this diagram from Bill Verburg (at the Pelican BBS) very helpful for these questions:

X's for lifting O's(and X's for stands), there are others, the Os are almost impossible to get a jack on

[zenithblue71T]

this is super helpful, thank you guys!

[blucille]

Harry,

Looks like that 2x8 isn't the best choice, as you know....but certainly it would be better if you moved the jack stands inboard by a foot or so on each side, ther would be less flexing and the stands would be more directly under the weight they were holding up....

Just my two cents.

[smedley]

If you are going to remove JUST the A-arms, leaving the cross member in...use the cross member for the front jack stands...avoiding sheet metal all together. If cross member is coming out for repaint then use Ed's suggestion.

Rear torsion bar bushings? I assume you mean the rear spring plate bushings, which are bonded to the spring plate. You can use some after market bushings which I suspect are all harder than the stock rubber. (don't know if the Neatrix pieces are still available) I took the opportunity to just replace the old style spring plates with '78-on SC plates which allow some finer rear height and corner weight adjustment, and are not as radical as racing spring plates. You have to buy the plates and new eccentric bolts for the newer units. The SC plates are very stock appearing with fresh bonded rubber...if you are into originality. By the way, removing the original rubber from the old plates is a "wonderful" little task...hack saw and torch!

[zenithblue71T]

Rear torsion bar bushings? I assume you mean the rear spring plate bushings, which are bonded to the spring plate.

Yeah sorry, I'm going to replace my spring plate bushings like this:

I'd like to upgrade to SC spring plates but I'll probably just keep the early ones I have.