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Thread: Can't make it go!!!

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Mishawaka, Indiana
    Posts
    98

    Can't make it go!!!

    I have a 68 911S that's I had to take home on a trailer. I was told it needed a new clutch cable when I bought it. I order the new cable from Pelican and upon taking the old one out, I noticed they were the same length.

    Next I thought it must be a bad clutch. I just dropped the engine and transmission and have found the clutch to looks almost new with no signs of wear or burning. Further, the flywheel show no signs of wear or burning, but the flywheel teeth are worn in a pattern. It goes from a maximum of about 5/16” wear to about 1/8”. That is as measured in tooth width and not tooth depth. See photo.

    In summary, the cable appears right, the clutch and flywheel appear almost new with the exception of tooth wear. In spite of this, I can’t engage the clutch??? It’s like the cable is too long, but I’ve got it adjusted as short as possible.

    Any ideas???

    Thanks

    Name:  Flywheel.jpg
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    Larry Dunville
    • 1968 911S Targa Softwindow
    • 2002 996 Carrera

    S Registry Member #2247

  2. #2
    That flywheel looks badly worn and burnt. Measure the depth of the flywheel, it should be 22.5mm. If not, both the face and the shoulder will need to be machined to achieve that depth. When the shoulder is machined the outer corner must be lathe cut to obtain a slight undercut or else the edge of the pressure plate won't sit flat in the corner. Check the plastic bushing for the throwout fork pivot, it will likely need to be replaced. The starter ring teeth have normal engagement wear and is of no concern. The clutch cable is also adjustable at the front, which I'm sure you've seen since you've changed cables. When you say the clutch won't engage I assume you mean it won't hook-up, and the car won't move? Are you able to get free play at the top of the pedal travel? When you push the clutch pedal all the way down do you feel it go over center near the bottom of its travel? When you find the over center point adjust the pedal stop on the floorboard so the pedal just slightly goes over center. The clutch should start engaging about an inch from the pedal stop, and have about 3/4" of free play at the top of its travel.
    Early S Registry member #90
    R Gruppe member #138
    Fort Worth Tx.

  3. #3
    old softie67S
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Sanibel Fl
    Posts
    457
    It may just be the image, but do I see cracks in that flywheel ? Ed, will machine remedy that situation?
    Tom
    Tom

    67S soft rear window
    60 356 Cab
    70 914-6 3.2 short stroke twin plug
    05 Audi S4 Cabrio (commuter)
    05 Audi Alroad (family driver)
    Aprilia SR 50R (Sanibel scoot)

  4. #4
    Yes Tom, you do see surface cracks in the flywheel face. Those should disappear when the surface is refaced on a flywheel grinder. Those are usually caused from excessive heat from a slipping clutch. I also forgot to mention that after machining a flywheel the pivot ball will need to shimmed out to compensate, ie restablishing the designed pivot point of the throw-out arm.
    Early S Registry member #90
    R Gruppe member #138
    Fort Worth Tx.

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