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Thread: Going to look at a fantastic 1973 911S tomorrow. Need a bit of advice.

  1. #461
    Glad to hear about your health; almost a decade later the car is done and it's BEAUTIFUL. I guess getting more horsepower than a stock 2.7RS engine with your 2.4S motor is a plausible explanation, and given other 2.4S owners something to think about, Cheers

  2. #462
    Senior Member joegt3cup's Avatar
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    Ravi I have one of the roll bars he use to make, its new never been used if interested.
    Joe Annicelli
    Early 911S Registry #751
    Polo Red/Black 1967 Porsche 911S Coupe "Walter"
    Black/Red 1967 Alfa GTJr. Coupe "Nero"
    Italian Red 1994 Ducati 900SS/SP looks fast standing still
    Italian Red 1957 Gilera 150 Sport

    Ahhhh the sixties... I envision myself one early Saturday morning wearing plaid shorts, black shoes with white socks smoking a cigarette heading to the hardware store to buy a bag of nails.
    SWB cars are an acquired taste however once acquired theirs no turning back.

  3. #463
    member #1515
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    Great news, now go out and drive it!
    David

    '73 S Targa #0830 2.7 MFI rebuilt to RS specs

  4. #464
    Senior Member NorthernThrux's Avatar
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    Thanks to damsroy, proper matched 72 date stamped rear lenses. I had one 72 and one 77. Was never able to find a NOS right side 72 until now. One more item off the punch lost. Tomorrow an extinguisher goes in under the passenger seat if I have time and the speed relay goes to Bob Ashlock for repair.

    Still have issue with the tach that neither Robert or I could figure out. Perfect continuity of the Blk/purple wire from the distributor to the tach, but the tach only works with the Ashlock adapter box set to provide high voltage impulses. Should be necessary. The CDI box has a 120 ohm pull up resistor and the tach is dated 11/72 and shouldn’t need the high voltage spike on the leading edge of the square wave. Even more bizzare, the tach reads 1250 rpm when my dwell meter says 850 (i.e. at idle), but by 2000 rpm and higher it reads bang on. Which I suppose is all that matters, but its annoying to me. If anyone has an idea....I’m going to try it with the speed relay pulled tomorrow, in case that is putting some kind of weird load on the dizzie line. Because Buz at Seattle Speedometer looked the tach over twice and said it worked just fine.
    Early 911S Registry # 2395
    1973 Porsche 911S in ivory white 5sp MT
    2015 Porsche Macan S in agate grey 7sp PDK

  5. #465
    Senior Member frederik's Avatar
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    You can tell the different types of tachometers apart by looking at the sign on the white connector on the back of the tach. It's either a "1" or a "C". The "C" type is later and doesn't need an adapter or ballast unit. See this thread, post #28: https://www.early911sregistry.org/fo...chometer/page3

    I know this because I'm struggling with tach problems myself.

    The speed relay is often easy to repair yourself, most likely a couple of transistors have corroded connections and need to be replaced. I did mine in just an hour.

    Good to see that you're in "normal" early 911 land with little things to fix and attend to.
    1970 2.2S Elfenbeinweiss
    1972 2.4T Targa Aubergine (MFI) [For sale]
    2002 996 TT Midnight Blue
    Member #3833

  6. #466
    Senior Member NorthernThrux's Avatar
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    Mine has a C, as a 11/72 stamped tach should. That’s the mystery. It shouldn’t need an adapter and a respected shop that has looked at it says it is OK. So there is something else....could be the speed relay or following from your link, maybe an issue with idle voltage. Currently using a modern solid state voltage regulator (modern but probably 10-15 years old) but I have an NOS SEV Marchal one I can pop in and see what happens.

    And yes, it is nice to be in a “new normal” of just dealing with fiddly little things on the car and driving it.

    I did fix the relay a couple of years ago just by cleaning it up inside without any component replacements, but I’ll let Bob handle it this time. He’s modestly priced.

    Ravi
    Last edited by NorthernThrux; 06-04-2020 at 07:17 AM. Reason: date code on tach changed.
    Early 911S Registry # 2395
    1973 Porsche 911S in ivory white 5sp MT
    2015 Porsche Macan S in agate grey 7sp PDK

  7. #467
    What’s an 11/73 tach doing in your car Ravi��
    Clyde Boyer





    1973 2.4E Coupe RHD Aussie 5 speed
    1973 2.4E Coupe RHD Aussie 5 speed my first ever 911 (1995)







    Early S Registry Member #294
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    TYP 901 Register Inc #6

  8. #468
    Senior Member NorthernThrux's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BOYER73S View Post
    What’s an 11/73 tach doing in your car Ravi��
    11/72, my bad. Fat finger typing on a iPad! Typo corrected!

    I shouldn’t let things like this bother me, but I am OCD about having things work right. The only thing that really matters is that it indicates red line correctly, and that it does.
    Early 911S Registry # 2395
    1973 Porsche 911S in ivory white 5sp MT
    2015 Porsche Macan S in agate grey 7sp PDK

  9. #469
    Quote Originally Posted by BOYER73S View Post
    Yes those PK CDI boxes are rubbish, I had 3 fail out of 6 I purchased a while ago.
    I burned up several PK coils as they arc'd through the potting material to the case and shorted out. (Tow truck x 2) I've use the cheapest thing on the planet made by Pertronix (Flamethrower) for a back up. It's bullet proof and I still carry it for insurance. My '74 has the tried and true MSD6AL with an MSD coil.

    My ultimate goal is to call Richard Clewett one day and (finally) order a crank fire ignition. Fewer moving parts and always on time.

    Even our seed planter uses the technology.
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    Early S Registry #235
    rgruppe #111

  10. #470
    Senior Member NorthernThrux's Avatar
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    The 123ignition solution also looks good if you want to go electronic, but stick with a traditional looking distributor that can use the vacuum advance. May look at that some day, but right now the stock components were all rebuilt and work perfectly.

    Today's quick fixes were two.

    I permanently wired in a plug for my CTEK battery maintainer (wired to rear fuse 3 and one of the mounting screws for the engine electrical console). The rear post of the #3 fuse (the top one) is directly fed by the driver's side battery via the starter motor and the B+ alternator terminal. Because the charger is at the rear of my lift, as is the engine, it is more convenient to hook up a plug at the rear. Also, since the charger is right next to the lift controls, it means I won't drive off with the thing connected, because it's right there in my face.

    And two, a HalGuard extinguisher. Because you just can't be too careful.The seat release handle just clears the Brey-Krause mount, should anyone actually want to move the seat forward.

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    Early 911S Registry # 2395
    1973 Porsche 911S in ivory white 5sp MT
    2015 Porsche Macan S in agate grey 7sp PDK

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