Going to look at a fantastic 1973 911S tomorrow. Need a bit of advice.

[gled49]

Not uncommon for front torsion bars to rub dry against the crossmember. Measure front ride height, count the number of turns when removing the front ride height screws, pull off adjuster cap and T bar and look for dry rub thru within a few inches and lube. It’s worth a look.

[NorthernThrux]

Thanks Gordon. Will take a look next time I put her on the lift. These were my drips 3 hours after the trip. Also pretty much normal I assume? Will see if there is anything that can be snugged up.

[sithot]

Thanks Gordon. Will take a look next time I put her on the lift. These were my drips 3 hours after the trip. Also pretty much normal I assume? Will see if there is anything that can be snugged up.

"Number 8" bearing could be leaking. Can be an issue, especially on mag cases. Best case scenario is a leaking/nicked/cocked crankshaft pulley seal.
The little leak could be a cam box or any of the fittings up top - like the pressure fed tensioners.

Henry Schmidt sells a nice kit #8 sealing kit which I've seen used. There are no guarantees.
(I've also seen engines come down multiple times for this.)

After what you've been through I'd live with it..

[NorthernThrux]

Thanks Tom. Looks like the bigger one is just rearward of the sump plate. The seam between the two haves of the case is moist between there and the rear of the case. Will look at it more closely when I put her back on the lift. I had my nose in by the pulley when I dropped some of the fan pulley shims in there yesterday and it didn't look wet, but I'll look closer. No pressure fed tensioners (went with collars), but I did snug up a few cam cover bolts to eliminate some other leaks, so I'll double check some more when she's up in the air.

Yup, I have no intentions of leaving the car back in his shop again, let alone reopening the motor. Everything is running spectacularly well, and I will just live with these idiosyncrasies if I can't fix them.

[sithot]

Thanks Tom. Looks like the bigger one is just rearward of the sump plate. The seam between the two haves of the case is moist between there and the rear of the case. Will look at it more closely when I put her back not he lift. I had my nose in by the pulley when I dropped some of the fan pulley shims in there yesterday and it didn't look wet, but I'll look closer. No pressure fed tensioners (went with collars), but I did snug up a few cam cover bolts to eliminate some other leaks, so I'll double check some more when she's up in the air.

Yup, I have no intentions of leaving the car back in his shop again, let alone reopening the motor. Everything is running spectacularly well, and I will just live with these idiosyncrasies if I can't fix them.

That's a great news. I did get a slick sump plate from Aaron Burnham a few years ago. Aluminum, obviously not original, but it doesn't leak either.
(PS: I have "tested" collars in the past and they do work.)

[RSTarga]

Thanks Gordon. Will take a look next time I put her on the lift. These were my drips 3 hours after the trip. Also pretty much normal I assume? Will see if there is anything that can be snugged up.

After all these years... FUGGEDABOUTIT!!

[NorthernThrux]

I do like things that are mechanically perfect (I'm a little OCD that way), so if I can get them tracked down, I will. I am using it as my daily driver right now, so I didn't want to take the Macan off the lift and put the 911 back up. So I just put my iPhone on top of each drip and took a picture. Yellow arrow is the bigger spot, white arrow is the smaller one. Neither looks particularly bothersome TBH.

[frederik]

I get around 18 mpg with my 2.4T with MFI so 16 for an S seems completely normal. This is for mixed country road driving and I floor it when the road is open. According to Peter Morgan, 12 mpg is normal for a 2.4S when you drive it hard.

Definitely don't let the engine idle to warm it up. Just drive away using modest revs: the engine will warm up much quicker this way.

[Arne]

The drips and fuel economy are consistent with my '72T as well. I also get around 18MPG, and have got it down to a couple similar drips after a day's drive. Was considerably worse when I first got it back on the road. I replaced many of the aluminum sealing washers on the case and chain covers, that helped a lot. I still have a small drip from the #8 bearing, will probably get the sealing sleeve kit from Supertec at some point.

I second the recommendation to not let it sit and idle to warm up. I just start it and leave, but keep the revs down until the oil temp gets up to at least 150°F or more.

[Chuck Miller]

Ravi,

Before my '2003 rebuild my stock 2.4S got about 15 mixed MPG, 9 at the track, and just under 20 on a full tank of 5th gear 55 MPH vacation driving.

The 2.7 / 9.5 rebuild gets about 13 mixed, 7 at the track, and just under 19 for a full tank at 55 MPH on the same vacation drive.

Owning my car for 14 years stock, and 17 years with the rebuild (and averaging about the same 6000 miles annually) besides the obvious performance differences, what's interesting to me (as I think I wrote before) 2.7 rebuild gets to temp quicker, run slightly hotter on demand, and 'temp recovers' when I take my foot out of it, or turn it off, faster then the stock 2.4S... Go figure...