Any experience repairing/splicing factory oil lines

[Cornpanzer]

Dealing with a car that has through the rocker oil lines (factory early S cooler) and they are crushed right at the bend where they make the turn out of the rocker and up through the front fender.
I have seen the threads where people heat them and pressurize them, but since the damage is on a sharp bend, I fear that they will just split. Anyone had any experience splicing in new sections using new brass tubing? Any experienced advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

[M_deJong]

See the post by Ed Mayo in this thread: http://www.early911sregistry.org/for...e+modification

[911r67]

We produce them 1:1 in brass! I can offer you a new set! the problem is they mostly leak and new ones will last for next 40 years!

[platas]

Can you send me pm on where to buy these from you guys.

thanks

[sithot]

some guys on pelican swear that you can easily seal up the ends, pump some air pressure into them and gently heat with a mapp torch, the crushed areas will easily work themselves out.....it's on my 'to do' list on my '73, and I'll probably volunteer the services on Reza's cricket, if all goes according to plan....winter projects.

There is at least one place I know of that repairs "expansion chambers" for 2 stroke racers. These are always getting hammered and unless you are a factory rider on an unlimited budget it's the only way to fly. They use nitrogen to pressurize them and judicious use of a torch. Many come back looking like new!

Tom

[Cornpanzer]

I have seen the threads where people heat them and pressurize them, but since the damage is on a sharp bend, I fear that they will just split. Any experienced advice would be appreciated.

Excellent suggestions here. Thanks for the link to Eds post Mike. I spoke to Frank about the new lines. Perhaps a group buy may be in order.

[geshaghi]

Dave -
I had a set of hard lines for my 72S that were damaged and almost fully-occluded around the jack points. I sent them out for a chemical strip in advance to clean them up and see what we were dealing with. One of the lines had holes and I discussed repairs with a local radiator shop that fixes gas tanks for me. We decided to try and repair them in-house, and first brazed the lines using map gas to repair the holes. I then used the heat/air pressure method and was able to get the lines open and back into shape. We used propane initially, but this did not heat the metal sufficiently so we used map gas for this as well. I was concerned that the map gas would melt the brazing, but this not an issue. We used PVC caps/plugs and one of the caps popped off after we had finished during the cool down (think champagne bottle on steroids); fortunately no one was hurt, but if I were to do it again I would source the correct threaded metal caps and plugs and tap one for an air fitting. I think that this would work even at sharp bends, as I had damage at the jack points and they shape returned substantially back to normal. I think the trick is getting the lines to heat up to the correct temp - not too hot and not too cold! Good luck and be careful.

[letsrollbabe]

Dave:

My local shop has brazed sections into hard lines for me to remove damaged sections by cutting a length of replacement tube the same length as the damaged one. The larger diameter later lines are fairly common, and I have used pieces from trombone coolers to get replacement pieces with the right curves when needed...but these lines are too large for your lines. You would need some good length from damaged smaller hard lines to make a splice. But brazing in a piece and then grinding off the excess brazing leaves a very nice looking result. It is an alternative to Ed's sleeve technique.