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Thread: New Member; 1966 Build Date Project

  1. #1
    Member JimVillers's Avatar
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    New Member; 1966 Build Date Project

    I am just starting the restoration of a 911 SWB chassis number 305119. I bought this project from an posting in Panorama. This should be an interesting project and i posted a couple of pictures. I have restored a 356C from parts so I am not new to the process. My intent is to restore it as close to original as I can. I do have a few initial questions:

    What books or other documentation have been found valuable? I have the Porsche shop manual but I would like more information on originality.

    Is there a good source for original colors? My chassis has been painted and I believe that the non-exterior should be black.

    The gauges are not the same color, green tachometer and white speedometer, which is correct?

    I will do some more searching of this forum but there are LOTS of postings, many, many fore than the other boards that I have posted to. I'll post detail questions when they occur.

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    Virginia Beach, VA
    Mercedes 190SL, Mercedes 230SL, 356C, MGB and now a SWB 911

  2. #2

    Welcome

    Welcome to the group Jim.

    You have found the right place. This is more than the equivalent of the the 356 Registry.
    Ask away on your questions, there are folks here from over the world with recent and excellent experience on our cars.

    There are folks like Dave Pateman with his engine studies that have more consolidated info then the factory.
    The guys here have shared their cars information so studies like the "Is my car a 1965 or a 1966" has numbers and enlightened observations that has never been compiled before. It sets long held (40 something years) of published information as missing, incomplete and in some cases mis-read or mis-applied. It has helped writers like Randy Leffingwell, Brian Long, Jurgen Lewendowski, Patrick Paternie (RIP) and Tobias Aichele, get much more accurate information into their newer books.

    If you want to start with a single book find a copy of Dr Brett Johnsons (yes the same guy) "The 911 and 912 Porsche, A rerstorer's Guide to Authenticity" (he wrote it after the 356 so it is just as complete.) If only it had been published 20 years latter it would be in color and the photography would be shot with macro lens'.

    In addition to John "304065", and Freddie' work look up David "LGK6D" and Magnus, and about a dozen other guys all with outstanding cars.

    There are a number of documented restores of 1965/1966/1967 cars found on this site that are each worth a book by themselves. Happy reading.
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    Bob
    Early S Reg #370

  3. #3
    Jim

    WELCOME to the Forum. You will find many friends here.

    A few observations and answers.

    Save that Sydmur Fireball, those are pretty rare. They are an early commercial form of capacitive discharge ignition before the factory's in 1969.

    Yes, the chassis should be all satin black. That is a separate discussion in itself.

    What is the original color of the car? The color code can be found on the paint code tag on the forward driver door pillar. Do you have the Certificate of Authenticity from Porsche? It is also found on the COA. COA are not perfect and expensive, but a must have for a serious restoration.

    Gauges had green lettering until the 1968 year. On the back of yours, there is a date stamped into the metal for production, and another date stamped with blue ink for Quality Control.

    The factory workshop manual is a good source both for technical information and how the original prototypes and early production cars looked. The PET parts diagrams contain the updated, superceded part numbers, and the illustrations are good enough for assembly. For originality, a factory parts book or a repro is very important.

    Do you have the engine and transmission? Interior? The project looks mostly complete, I would start by cataloging everything and then looking for rust. As a 356 guy, you know the drill.

    Again, WELCOME. As you dig into the project post your questions here and tag them with "add/edit tags" at the bottom so you can easily find all the answers.
    1966 911 #304065 Irischgruen

  4. #4
    Member JimVillers's Avatar
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    Thanks for the welcome. I just placed an order for Brett Johnsons' book. I did not know that he had also written for the 911. His 356 book was excellent and I would expect the same for his 911 book.

    I will definitely post questions as they occur. I am the webmaster for the 190SL Group and originated and manage our vBulletin forum so I am both aware how valuable a resource they are and also the fun they are to frequent posters as they help the newbe's sort through the tasks and procedures that are common knowledge for the frequent posters.

    I spent most of today sorting through and inspecting things to formulate my approach. One of my discoveries was that the suspension was just slapped on to make the chassis a roller. So, the suspension must come off to insure that the rubber, seals, grease and torques are correct.

    I was afraid that I would hear that the stone guard surfaces should be satin black. One more task for the list.

    I have a transmission, 901/02 (from a 911S). The project had a 911S engine but the previous owner is selling the engine separate. I have bought a 901/05 engine which is about 700 serial numbers from what probably came with the car. I'll order a COA after the title has been transfered.
    Jim Villers
    Virginia Beach, VA
    1961 190SL Mercedes, 1965 230SL Mercedes, 1965 356C Porsche, 1971 MGB, 1967 911 Chassis #305119

  5. #5
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    What's laying up against the wall next to the Go-Cart in the pic?
    190SL? I have two 73 107s.

  6. #6
    Member JimVillers's Avatar
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    That was in the building where I picked yo the car. It is a race chassis that is for sale. If interested, send me a PM and I'll put you in touch.
    Jim Villers
    Virginia Beach, VA
    1961 190SL Mercedes, 1965 230SL Mercedes, 1965 356C Porsche, 1971 MGB, 1967 911 Chassis #305119

  7. #7
    Member JimVillers's Avatar
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    Nick .... I was tempted but the cost difference was quite significant to buy a 'S' serial number engine. I believe that most of the difference is really only in the engine number. I will be rebuilding the engine and could build it to 'S' specifications but I will probably just focus on the stock specifications.
    Jim Villers
    Virginia Beach, VA
    1961 190SL Mercedes, 1965 230SL Mercedes, 1965 356C Porsche, 1971 MGB, 1967 911 Chassis #305119

  8. #8
    Member JimVillers's Avatar
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    A morning questions after looking at the recommended threads.

    Is the fuel tank "356 engine gray"? My car has undercoat in the trunk, and passenger compartment (see pictures above), should those areas be smooth chassis black (satin)? I first thought of just painting the areas but then I thought about the installation of the coverings and figure that it all must go. I assume that the undercoating is correct in the fender wells and the underside.
    Jim Villers
    Virginia Beach, VA
    1961 190SL Mercedes, 1965 230SL Mercedes, 1965 356C Porsche, 1971 MGB, 1967 911 Chassis #305119

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by 304065 View Post
    Save that Sydmur Fireball, those are pretty rare. They are an early commercial form of capacitive discharge ignition before the factory's in 1969.
    This person needs your Sydmur Fireball...

    http://www.early911sregistry.org/for...-Fyreball-core
    Peter Kane

    '72 911S Targa
    Message Board Co-Moderator - Early 911S Registry #100

  10. #10
    Senior Member Harvey Weidman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimVillers View Post
    A morning questions after looking at the recommended threads.

    Is the fuel tank "356 engine gray"? My car has undercoat in the trunk, and passenger compartment (see pictures above), should those areas be smooth chassis black (satin)? I first thought of just painting the areas but then I thought about the installation of the coverings and figure that it all must go. I assume that the undercoating is correct in the fender wells and the underside.
    Before jumping into any painting, I would be sure the undercoating is correct...By the looks of it you may have to go back in many areas if you are looking for originality.
    H

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