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Thread: Show me your strut braces, please

  1. #1
    less wing, more brass bxd's Avatar
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    Show me your strut braces, please

    I have been reluctant to add a strut tower brace, thinking that it would reduce the amount of space in my trunk, and that I really don't need the added stiffness on the street. However, after borrowing a strut brace from a friend I realized that, yes, my 43yr old '69 coupe absolutely benefits from the added stiffness. -Probably because the car was rallied and autox'd for many years and the towers have closed-inward over time. So yes, there is no other way to say it... I'm sold. I've therefore read and re-read most of the related posts here and on the bird, hoping to get a better handle on what style is most period correct for a '69, which styles improve handling most and are easiest to adjust etc., what style is the least detrimental to the resale value of the car (e.g. weld-in vs. bolt-in), and who makes the best product. I've also tried to get a handle on how these things really work, e.g. tension, compression, pre-load, etc.

    After looking around a bit, I realized that there are lots of choices in the 911 strut tower bracing world. It's also become clear that there are two distinct camps; one being more traditional (bolt-in 917/ST, weld-in RSR type, etc.), the other embracing newer technology and design concepts (added pre-loading, use of carbon fiber, off-axis cantilever bracing, etc.).

    Being a bit of a traditionalist, I'm leaning towards the old-school bolt-in 917/ST type, or the weld-in RSR type, but I'm curious what you guys think. If you have one in your car, show me what you got, and if you have an opinion on designs, makes, models, and suppliers, I'm all ears.

    This was taken from the "Olive" Hot Rod Build Thread. It's the earlier (more ST-like) bolt-in kind:


    Here is the later (RSR type) weld-in kind:
    Last edited by bxd; 08-01-2012 at 01:26 PM.
    Jordan
    rally-prepped '69 911T 3.0L
    S Registry #1933
    Vintage Parts & Restoration http://retro-sport.com

  2. #2
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    just like yours
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  3. #3
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    Most of the aftermarket bolt on kind work really well. It just depends on if you want to go to the trouble of welding and painting. If you car isn't a ST or RSR of some type I'd go aftermarket because it's so easy to remove. I have a 72ST and went with the RSR type as I just really like the look. It's personal choice.
    72S, 72T now ST

  4. #4
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    Same BUT a little different..

    its ALL about the details..

    www.magnuswalker911.com
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  5. #5
    less wing, more brass bxd's Avatar
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    Most of the aftermarket bolt on kind work really well. It just depends on if you want to go to the trouble of welding and painting. If you car isn't a ST or RSR of some type I'd go aftermarket because it's so easy to remove.
    I like the look of the RSR type as well. Although, if they're used in the classic configuration, the downside is that they aren't easily adjustable... you have a steel bar with holes cut at a specific width, and if you want to change that width, you have to change the bar... I guess you could add an adjustable turnbuckle to it, but then it wouldn't look right.

    If I understand correctly, because the cross-bar is higher than the top of the tower, the RSR brace has better leverage than the ones mounted directly to the bolts on top of the tower. How much does this increase or decrease the amount of force put through the bar during cornering and hard braking? Any idea?
    Jordan
    rally-prepped '69 911T 3.0L
    S Registry #1933
    Vintage Parts & Restoration http://retro-sport.com

  6. #6
    less wing, more brass bxd's Avatar
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    Magnus, those are bitchin'!

    Did you brew those up yourself?
    Jordan
    rally-prepped '69 911T 3.0L
    S Registry #1933
    Vintage Parts & Restoration http://retro-sport.com

  7. #7
    Senior Member NickP's Avatar
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    excuse the crap iPhone shot taken in the semi dark. This brace does not interfere with trunk space. NP
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    Last edited by NickP; 08-01-2012 at 03:19 PM.
    Nick Psyllos
    S Reg & R Gruppe
    1973 Euro 911S
    1972 911T to ST

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    Bxd.

    Home brew...



    its the details that seperate the good cars from the GREAT CARS..


    "dare to be different"


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  9. #9
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    Jordan, once it's set there's no need to adjust. It's a fixed piece. Just as if you welded in a roll cage to the same location. I did that on my RSR.
    72S, 72T now ST

  10. #10
    St-Classic.com advtracing's Avatar
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    very trick idea , do you have the copyright
    John Gausden
    Auckland, New Zealand

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