starting up '73 911e after 25 yrs...need advice

[matthew mirones]

where to begin to get this car roadworthy? indoor storage unmolested. parked with no mech problems. 23 k miles ALL original. mech fuel injection

[ESully]

Start with the basics. Fresh oil and filter. Make sure fuel tank is clean and free of rust, new fuel filters. Check rubber fuel lines for cracks and steel lines for rust. When it starts you want to make sure it can stop. Flush out brakes and install new fluid. Make sure calipers move freely, if not rebuild the calipers. I'd recommend new rubber hoses also. New batteries and check for corrosion at fuse panel and grounds. Check for corrosion around battery boxes and suspension pan. Check the distributor advance plate is moving freely and points gap set. Cap and rotor must be in good condition. Get a fire extinguisher. If the tires are old replace them. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete....jsp?techid=11 , http://www.aa1car.com/library/tire_expire.htm
Disable the ignition and fuel system and crank the engine a few times to get oil pressure indication on the gage. Turn on fuel pump and check for leaks.

[NorthernThrux]

All good advice, but I'd say that checking the rubber lines is not an option. You need to replace them. Cracks can be on the inside too and can fracture under pressure. It's a small cost and a prudent measure to ensure your precious 911e doesn't go up in flames or hit the car in front of it when you brake. No car is perfect after 25 years, so exercise caution and don't be in a hurry.

[304065]

Don't even think of hitting the starter until you check out the MFI system. Probably what has happened is that evaporating old gasoline has turned to varnish inside the fuel lines and inside the cylinders in the MFI pump. If you crank the engine over you will damage the pump.

Also, the cylinders are completely dry by this point and may have some rust on the cast iron sleeve (73E was Biral 84mm), so I would see if you can inspect them with an inexpensive USB borescope before you move the crankshaft. If that all checks out OK, squirt some oil in the cylinders and GENTLY, gently turn the crank over manually with the battery disconnected and the spark plugs removed first. You want to be sure that everything moves freely with no resistance before moving forward.

Replacing the fuel lines is an absolute must, after 20- odd years the originals are no doubt brittle and given the supply pressure of the MFI pump (1 bar operating, pressure relief valve opens at 2 bar) you could create a fireball if even a pinhole leak develops. Use only original Cohline hose. Change the vacuum lines also, and don't forget the lines for the cold-start system.

Don't forget to lubricate the distributor and vacuum advance mechanism.

Bringing an engine back to life that has been stored, even if properly mothballed, for two decades, is a multi-day proposition. Take your time and be sure everything is clean and moving freely before ever hitting the starter. Good luck.

[sithot]

All of the above and I reiterate the cleaning of the fuel tank.

Pull the tank and have it cleaned. I promise you no matter how well it may have been stored there are things in there that you don't want the fuel pump and filter system to deal with.

Tom

[gumby1953]

OK Boys and Girls,

Watch this YouTube we did I few years ago. This doesn't mean varnish wont grow in all cases of fuel sitting ina engine but does give a little insight on how long fuel will sit in a fuel system in a 911 engine!

I normally turn the engine over with a wrench a few times before I use the starter motor. If things inside are stuck, the light shock of a wrench is a lot ezzier on der parts than the instant movement of a torque-y starter!. If the engine is stuck then you can rock the crank in both directions and maybe it will free up. The most important thing is to do all the above suggestions and really make sure you get oil pressure before starting. I would also recommend changing the chain tensioner's before really using it......and no, I don't mean chopping up the sheet metal and installing the "PRESSURE FED" ONES, cause you don't need them...stock one's (930 type) are perfect for any early 911!!!

Don't rev it up until you have all thing working and good oil pressure and oil temp too and don't worry if you see gobs of smoke and oil discharging out the tail pipe, this normally happens when an engine sits for a long time. The engine wet-sumps itself and purges oil into the cylinders and then through the valve train (ALA VALVE GUIDES) and fills the muffler with of oil. It will clean itself out in a nice calm run up and down the street a few times!!

PS if your worried about hurting anything or even starting a fire because of something you forgot....then remove the engine and rebuild everything including the complete fuel system (tank included) and then no worries.....that's if you made sure to re-tighten all the hose clamps on everything!

Gumby

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PwQzB...&feature=g-upl

[Chuck Miller]

One video is worth a thousand words........ perfect Kevin