US 911s

[Merv]

Haven't yet received the full written OPC report on the car (will tomorrow) but it seems that new front suspension (lower control arm) bushes are certainly needed. Originals are still in place and the torsion bars look tricky to remove and re-tension. Looks like a shop job. More importantly, there is some doubt about whether the minor oil residue on the LF heat exchanger is coming from 1) a combination of the slightly leaking valve cover gasket and the oil pressure switch and breather pipe housing top gasket or 2) from the first and second cylinder barrels. The first. is not such a problem but the second ... That is engine out re-build territory I think?

I guess either can be accommodated in a negotiated price. Any advice welcomed. I know most cars but Porsches are new territory.

No rust detected and a few other rubber hoses and small bushes need replacement. Slight leak/weep from the gear selector shaft seal into the transmission.

[Fishcop]

Phil is indeed in Australia - Melbourne. I think he may even be able to order the seats upholstered in your preferred fabric/vinyl/leather combination, and they come with everything to mount the seat correctly and safely. Fixed vs recline tends to depend on whether you use the back seat or not. There is no reason you can't use a fixed for the driver and a recline for the passenger to give access (the factory did this in some race cars). There are also tilt forward brackets that will let the seat tilt enough to get to the back.

Any original car (or one that has been on the road for some time) will need the suspension seen to - front A, and rear Swing Arm bushes are a very common items to be replaced and there is a plethora of 'cottage' products that are superior to factory. The original rubber bushes were very elastic but will have deteriorated and deformed to the point that you get metal to metal contact. There are plenty of options to replace rubber with poly-whatever or even bearings. I think original stuff is mostly available, a bit more expensive than aftermarket, but will give 'factory' ride. A home mechanic can easily do the job - but pulling the rear spring plates can be a real bear.

My money is on the oil switch and rocker covers for oil leaks... The original covers are magnesium and can warp over time or if poorly torqued down (only 8 f/lb is required). A thorough look at the barrels will tell if they're leaking and the techs looking at the car should have access to a small camera probe. The older small capacity engines don't tend to leak here. The fundamental difference between old Porsche engines and other makes is that they used 'exotic' metals back in the day and ran circles around their opposition. However aluminium and more-so the magnesium need care and attention as it gets older. The Porsche engine actually has a bit more in common with old motorbike engines in design and construction - but fundamentally they're all just combustion engines... Don't let OPC or anyone else scare you off looking after the car yourself - they really are relatively easy to work on at home.

Click the link in my signature to see far too much of my car's restoration

[Merv]

Many thanks and you have done a stunning resto John. I have built a pretty good Cobra replica (and a couple of Alfas rebuilt) from basics including all mechanicals and electrics, but the body work you did is a testament to your patience and development. I like the seats as well. The tartan is a great idea.

I will speak to the guy who did the inspection tomorrow and like you, I hope for a better prognosis than leaking barrels. The compression test showed 175 on all cylinders, so that should augur well for the engine condition I would think. Does that make sense?

The rocker covers on there are already the 'turbo' ones but the gaskets are at least 6 years old and not adjusted/checked since. Not sure how easy the oil switch is to access, however?

The front end needs new shocks and bushes all round. Rears have been done. There doesn't 'seem' to be any rust evident and the paint is about 12-15 years old and untouched since then. But who knows!

Given that the engine block is magnesium - is there anything special that should be done to preserve it? I am keen to do as much as possible at home and have a two post hoist to help.

Cheers,

Merv

[Merv]

John - I posted reply to you but it seems to have disappeared?

Anyway - that is a great resto that you have done. I have done a few in the past of Alfas and Mercs and also built a Cobra from engine to electrics but your body work .. that is amazing stuff, reflecting persistence and your high standards. I can't find rust on this one I am going to buy, but as you say it does not mean its not there. The paint has been on for 15 years and nothing has shown up and there are no touch ups visible.

I will be able to speak to the OPC guy who did the inspection today hopefully. He had to rush off to the hospital today as one of his children was ill. All I got was a second hand set of brief notes and info. The rocker covers on this 911 are the Turbo ones and should be less leak prone. The gaskets are at least 5 years old and may be not set properly. Like you I am suspecting that the combo of the leaking gasket, leaking around the oil switch and the breather hose (is that easy to get at?) are the culprits, not barrel leaks. The fact that all 6 pistons showed up 175 pressure on compression testing would seem to indicate general engine health. Does that make sense?

EDIT: Spoke to the OPC guy and he was very knowledgeable and helpful. He was sure the minor leak on to the heat exchanger was from the lower value cover gasket, the breather pipe housing and possibly the oil switch gasket. All cheap items. All other things he said were good to go. The front control arm suspension bushes are original but so far there is little if any unwanted movement in them. So good progress all round.

I am happy to do as much as possible myself. That is the idea of the whole thing. I have hoist in the garage and that makes things a lot easier.

Also is there anything special that needs to be done to preserve the magnesium casing of the engine?

Thanks again John.

[pgxif]

Merv - the only "issue" with LHD is at the ticket issuing machine in carparks - having to unbuckle and lean over ... !
Other than that - no worries

Whilst LHD are cheaper, i don't believe they are or should be "substantially cheaper"

My advice - i regretted getting my original PPI at the Porsche dealership - they are 'ultra conservative'.
You might want to ask an independent specialist to comment on what Porsche have told you !

Best of luck
Paul

[Merv]

Thanks Paul. I bought the car for a good price. Now for those seats! How does one contact Phil the agent for the ones below?

[Fishcop]

Merv, Phil is the vice-pres of the Typ901 Register http://typ901.org/

Regarding the magnesium, there are number of products that can be used. I really like Tectyl 501 for the gearbox as it very accurately replaces the original Cosmolene product Porsche used. It stinks, it's sticky, and it stains; but it creates an impenetrable wax barrier against water and road grime. I'm also very happy with a product called Gibbs Brand Oil from the States - it's perhaps best described as being a WD40 like product but thinner and a bit more volatile. It really looks after bare aluminium and magnesium.

[Merv]

Yes John I have used the Tectyl 501 and that 506 has replaced it. I believe that 506 could do both the ally gearbox and the magnesium engine case. At least some on Pelican seem to suggest that. However the Gibbs Brand Oil is now available just up the road from me at Noosa, Sunshine Coast. Will check it out.

[Merv]

The 911 drove home the 200 kms very nicely and did not miss a beat in the 35 degree heat. Home and on the hoist to check things out today. What recommendations are common for engine oil (Castrol GTX?) and transmission oil?

Seats are the current priority:

I will be in touch with Phil L re the Torino/GTS range. But has anyone used these from Revolution Racegear: http://www.revolutionracegear.com.au...V=Primary&CDO=

Merv

[Rob B]

Merv

That is the seat that I have put in on the drivers side. Possibly not as good quality of the Torino ones, but I am vey happy with it for my application. Have not driven any distance yet, so cannot comment on the comfort.
Re oils - do a search on th Pelican board - the concensus in the states is Brad Penn 20w-50 engine oil and Kendall( not available in Aus) or Swepco 201 gearbox oil.

Rob