Share Your Favorite Repair Tips, Short-Cuts, Tricks etc ....

[Haasman]

Fuses ....

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If there is a weak link in these cars (sorry about the pun) it is the fuses. Aluminum fuses in copper holders means corrosion at some point- Sometimes creating weird and hard to trace electrical problems. So ...

-At least once a year I will try and rotate each fuse in the fuse boxes to make sure they have a good contact and haven't already started to corrode.

-When feeling particularly ambitious, I will remove each fuse and each contact end with a rag that has WD40 on it or ideally die-electric grease.

-Using the harder to find copper link fuses are the ideal way to go.

[Haasman]

When working on Sway Bars: It is often much easier to jack the entire end of the car up and avoid twisting of the bar.

I have frequently been told to not use petroleum products on rubber. I use silicone paste/grease instead.

[Haasman]

Keyes : I have found that a new key in an old tumbler extends the life and helps slow down the costly replacement.

I always get a new key when acquiring a car. I use the new key as the primary key and keep the old one(s) as backups.

Use lock lube. It works well and helps prevent that horrible rough feeling of worn tumblers.

A key is a lot less expensive than a new ignition tumbler.

[Haasman]

Never, EVER use dish washing soap to wash your car. Removes not only your wax but leeches and rapidly dries the paint. Do use dish washing soap carefully on your windshield to get rid of wax build up. Also use Dawn full strength to help slide rubber pieces through tight metal channels.

[Haasman]

How To Make It Move Again

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Quote:

Sometimes, when we're working on problems around the house, we run into frozen-up hardware, or hardware that will only move if enough force is exerted to damage it. When this happens, it usually stops our progress until we figure out a way around it. The solution I've found to work best is to soak the piece in vinegar. Vinegar will cut the rust better than any other commonly available product that I have found, and it is safe to use, with simple precautions. I use common white vinegar. It is cheap and plentiful, and it won't introduce as much organic material where it is not needed as many other vinegars. To put the vinegar where it's needed, I use a spray bottle or an eye-dropper. If you choose to use the spray technique, be sure to get a sprayer that can be adjusted down to a fine stream. Hold a piece of cardboard, or a rag, or just your hand, behind the piece you're spraying, if you need to. Give it one or two good squirts, or a couple of squeezes of the eye-dropper. Then walk away. Let the vinegar work for 10 to 15 minutes. When you return, work the part gently but firmly, back and forth, if it's a hinge or a pulley or some similar piece. If you have a nut on a bolt, perhaps on an old toilet seat, try turning it with the right size six-sided socket or closed-end wrench, or with the right size open-end wrench. This is not the time to use an adjustable wrench or pliers - you need to minimize the chance of slipping and rounding the shoulders on the nut or bolt. If the piece won't budge at all, try treating it one more time. If it will move now, but only haltingly, you might apply some oil to smooth its recovery. The conventional wisdom in this situation is to apply WD-40 to free up the frozen part. That is not usually the best solution. WD-40 is a very useful product in many situations, but it is not a solvent. It is a penetrating lubricant. That means that it will work its way into the smallest of openings to provide lubrication to dry parts. But it will not dissolve rust. Use the vinegar to do that. Then apply the WD-40, after things have started to move, to ease the movement. Things should go more smoothly from now on.

Source: http://homerepair.about.com

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[xpensivewino]

Keep a nice strong 9 volt battery in your tool box. It is great for testing almost anything electrical on the car. Bulbs, fuel pumps etc. Almost anything that runs on 12 volt can be tested with a 9V...Thanks wise older brother!!!

[setho]

If you have an oil leak, but aren't yet prepared to split your engine case to repair it (like me), pick up a few "Jonny Cat KatKit Disposable Cat Tray With Litter". For $5, you get a plastic tray that has kitty litter in it (which absorbs oil nicely).

http://www.amazon.com/Jonny-Cat-KatK...1835081&sr=1-1

[edmayo]

I have found it pretty much impossible to get the throttle rod boot over the throttle isolator in the car, so I unscrew the isolator from the throttle rod, clamp the large end in a vise, put some silicone lube on the boot, (may have to heat the boot with hot air dryer if old and brittle) and push and rotate to install on the SMALL end of the isolator. Use a open end wrench to reach in the boot and tighten the nut (this will be done on the car since the rod is still in the tunnel) Then use a hook tool (cotter pin puller works well) and the silicone lube to pull the boot over the stub on the chassis.

[Haasman]

These are great tips- keep 'em coming.

[Haasman]

Bump back ....