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Thread: Help mistery black wire through transmisson tunnel.

  1. #1

    Help mistery black wire through transmisson tunnel.

    I'm trying to get my car in better mechanical shape so I'm in the process of rebuilding the peddle cluster. When taking off the clutch cable which I'm also replacing I noticed a free black wire with a stock looking paddle connection. I'm wondering what it is supposed to be connected to.

    It is one single black wire anyone ever run into it before?

  2. #2
    I can't think of any reason for a wire at that point, you didn't say what car this is, it's not an SC with cruise is it? Is it a factory wire? Is it in a vinyl sleeve? is the spade end euro or domestic, ie. is the crimp end one of those blue, red or yellow plastic ends, or is it bare brass? Trace the wire and see where it goes. Do you see it entering the rear of the tunnel under the access plate? does it come out from under the car near the shift linkage? If so someone has added this.
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  3. #3
    Relaxed Rich Lambert's Avatar
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    E-brake switch?
    Rich
    1966 911 #303872
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    RG#478

  4. #4
    I'm going with it is not supposed to be there the PO had tried install a CIS in this 69 E, I think he was monkeying around with it.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Haasman's Avatar
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    Could be a CB radio antenna wire. Often was the case years ago, where the wire could then be brought up for a engine cover mounted antenna.

    Picture/description of the wire would help. Does it have a connector on the end?
    Haasman

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    70 914-6 #9140431874
    73 911s #9113300709

  6. #6
    Senior Member CidTito's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eli View Post
    I'm trying to get my car in better mechanical shape so I'm in the process of rebuilding the peddle cluster.
    Pre 1971

    I found a weak point in the pedal cluster is that is the PORSCHE OEM 911 912 65-ON Accelerator Gas Pedal Pivot Arm

    Name:  901pivotpin.gif
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    where the dang thing sheared itself away from the rest of the assembly while applying gas. This misfortune requires removal of the pedal cluster from the car. Get under the carpet, and remove floor board. You'll have to take off the accelerator pedal but undoing a couple of bolts. Check its condition carefully... if it is old, you might want to replace it. You'll need to also release the clutch cable, undo the clutch pin, remove the couple of bolts from the master cylinder from the front of the car as well. Only then can you pull out the entire pedal cluster. Its super dirty in there so give yourself some time to do a little bit floor board cleaning, youll be glad later in assembly. The cluster itself can be then pull out from the car. While you have the whole thing is still together, look very closely for stress at where the pin connects to that body. A matter of fact, look at the places where stress might happen, heck, the car is old. At very least for the accelerator one, one tell tail way that you will know its on its way out, is if you ever had to use a screwdriver to bend the this part back because it will fall behind the floorboard and get stuck. The fix is buying another one being very careful that it will potentially and eventually weaken and snap clean off. Another fix is using the one you already have, and create a nice clean weld that assures that short end to the longer end. The photo of "one being sold on Ebay.. used for $27.00" can be a world class headache.

    If it torques itself or snaps free while you are driving, your Porsche will take off like a bat out of hell. If you take it out of gear, you will red line and maybe float your valves. So keep it in gear, if this happens to you...don't panic, apply "needed braking" to hold speed, guessing your are not tailgating or some nice winding road, and simply turn the key off..and coast to safe spot.

    Road fix -
    If it torqued... take a large screwdriver and careful wedge it to bend the arm back into place. Hopefully you can use your car again. If it snaps.. you'll need to take he entire cluster out and pull the pivot arm out away from cluster. Get it on a bend and after cleaning it up some grind off the shear points. Bead weld 1/4" argon gas (not electric - not hot enough) the two parts together. You want to get as close to 90 degrees as possible, but small variations can happen. Reassemble the cluster.

    This is also a good time to give your cluster new brass bushings. Likely.. its has been done already, like my car, but if not.. you can follow the 101 Projects book, it covers it well and very straight forward. At final assembly remember to replace the rear lights brake switch to the brake pedal.

    That black wire.. might be power to rear speakers?
    Last edited by CidTito; 03-31-2013 at 12:46 PM.
    E911SR #2107
    69 911T/S SWT 3.2L
    RG #384

  7. #7
    I've been working on 911's since they first came out and I've never seen that bell crank shear, most I've ever seen is that the staked on ball ends sometimes need to be welded if the staking works loose. I have seen them get caught under the tunnel lip however, and that was always caused by worn bell crank bushings and a worn out gas pedal hinge that allowed the pedal to twist towards the tunnel when pushed down. There is also a pedal stop on the floorboard to ensure you aren't stressing the linkage by pushing the pedal too far, and which would also allow the bellcrank to be pushed too far towards the tunnel edge.
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