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Thread: Swb suspension questions

  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    Swb suspension questions

    Hallo to everybody

    It's time to choose suspension setup for my sport purpose 68S.

    First of all i made the decision to change front package with a 69-73 koni strut with raised spindle (thanks Neunelfer)

    The normal choice in this case is:

    Product Code: KONI-8040-1083 for rear - gas filled

    Product Code: KONI-86-1638 for front - hydraulic

    Ok. But I'd like to know if somebody have an experience with more sophistcated struts (racing/rally oriented) especially for rear wheels ( i like koni for his oil/gas technology, and the swb rear struts they suggest are only gas filled without externally adj.)

    Eg: may i use Product Code: KONI-8210-1159S ( Shock - Koni Sport, Externally Adj., Shortened Body, rear) that is specifically produced for Lwb cars?

    Any help is appreciated.
    Andrea
    Registry Member #1414
    NOSGRUPPE

  2. #2
    Andrea,

    You can go with whatever you want as a base, but I would have them revalved to match the spring rate of whatever torsion bars or springs you are using. This is the beauty of externally adjustable shocks-- you can tune them to match the spring rate and racing surface.

    A neat solution is Chuck Moreland's VON shocks brand-- he has a shock dyno and can do the custom valving in-house. If I were building an all-out SWB race car, I'd use his spindles with coil-overs and then use his adjustable shocks, all in the same package, from one vendor. I say coil-overs because if the rules don't require you to use Torsion bars, you have more choices and more adjustability with coil-overs. Even with a 2200 pound SWB, it's still impossible to get enough spring rate in the rear for all-out racing even with 31mm rear torsions like I have in my '71.

    See here, for example: http://www.elephantracing.com/suspen...iondiagram.htm

    I would be cautious about using an LWB shock in the rear of an unmodified SWB-- the tubes that the shocks go in are fairly small, and I would be worried that the dust cover would hit them. If you're using coil-overs these get removed and larger reinforced tubes get welded in with gussets and tied into your cage.

    I used '72- shocks in my '71 with no issues even though '72- holes are bigger.

    Hope this helps. Even though the standard SWB Konis are not "externally adjustable" they are adjustable, you just have to take the out of the car!
    Last edited by 304065; 04-01-2013 at 01:20 PM.
    1966 911 #304065 Irischgruen

  3. #3
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    Thank you !
    About coil over system, i prefer to mantain Torsion bars for correct historic details.

    My philosophy for my car is that it's possibile to upgrade a Sport Car only with the options you could find in the years the car was competitive in races.

    For my 68S, the period is 1968-1971. After 1971 all swb cars in Europe, even if with the 2.5 Short Engine, were too old to be competitive.

    Btw, ok for the front oil+gas koni struts, but do you think that the rear gas-only struts are adjustabile and correct for my 2.5Lt 68S with 21-28 torsion bars and 22 F+R sway bars?

    I'm afraid that they are too simplified...

    thanks
    Andrea
    Registry Member #1414
    NOSGRUPPE

  4. #4
    Be careful about which camber plate you fit when you install the later strut.

    There is a difference between the very ealry palte, the 69 plate and the later plates that were used when the sturt tower angle changed and this reduces the amount of caster that you can dial in and you won't acheive the correct setting.

    I would try to use the original 68 Camber Plate.

  5. #5
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    Chris
    I red your old 3d about this question
    Why not eg wevo camberking?
    And if my original 68 plates, which monoballs you suggest?
    Registry Member #1414
    NOSGRUPPE

  6. #6
    Andrea,

    I don't tend to use monoballs so have no experiece with parts such as the Wevo items.

    The issue with the caster adjustment is the fore/aft position of the piston centreline to the mounting holes for the plates.

    Many aftermarket plates sseem to be based on the later camberplate and although they bolt in will restrict caster adjustment to about 4 degrees rather than the 6 to 6.5 degrees that I would prefer to see on a SWB car. I don't like to open up the holes in the body to allow this adjustment.

    This difference is never mentioned in any installation instructions for Camberplates and I am sure it will make a difference to how the car behaves.

    I just think this detail is commonly overlooked.



    From 1970




    I Just looked at the WEVO Website again and they show the Camberking as being suitable for 1969-1989 on the Website but if you go to Installation Instructions it says 1965-1989.

    I would tend to believe the 1969-1989 as being correct.
    Last edited by chris_seven; 04-02-2013 at 03:15 AM.

  7. #7
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    Understood. Very Clear.
    Thank you very very much.

    So you suggest to use my original 68 Camber plates. Perfect.

    In this case is better to use simple monoballs like this one (elephant) :



    or this Rubber bushing if i'll decide to go with original ride comfort.



    Correct?

    PS: i did not receive any mail from you....
    Last edited by andrea70; 04-02-2013 at 04:23 AM.
    Registry Member #1414
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  8. #8
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    Andrea, it might be worth having a word with Öhlins.

  9. #9
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    Yes Mikael
    I know i'll die to them...

    but before buying the best sweden suspension kit , i want to understand how to improve the "standard" Koni system.
    Registry Member #1414
    NOSGRUPPE

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by andrea70 View Post

    or this Rubber bushing if i'll decide to go with original ride comfort.



    This rubber bush doesn't fit the early camber plate.

    There are three variations over the years and I will try to dig out the old photographs I have showing the differences.

    PS: i did not receive any mail from you....
    I was not aware I owed you a mail - please remind me as I think senility must be fast approaching.

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