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Thread: 2.4L MFI start up question - oil pressure

  1. #1
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    2.4L MFI start up question - oil pressure

    I am getting a 72 2.4L that has not been run in a couple of years, up and running again.

    I have drained the tank and refreshed the fuel and with the distributor cap off have turned oover the motor with the intent of building oil pressure before I attempt to start the engine.

    I have cranked in 10 second intervals for nearly a minute and the oil pressure does not register - not even a twitch of the pressure gage.

    I have no reason to believe that there is any major mechanical problem because when the car last ran everything was fine.

    I have removed and reconnected the sensor (I think oil pressure) located at the rear of the engine just to the right of the fan to see if a quick electrical connection was a problem.

    So I am looking for input and ideas of how to proceed from the experts.

    I am reluctant to acutally start the motor until I know I have oil pressure. Thoughts and comments?

  2. #2
    Luft gekuhlt Bummler's Avatar
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    While cranking over the motor tap sharply on the glass of the oil pressure gauge. It could very well be as simple as a stuck needle...
    Last edited by Bummler; 04-12-2013 at 05:21 PM.
    Stefan Josef Koch
    RGruppe #194/SRegistry #1063
    1969 Porsche 911E, Light Ivory (38 years and counting)
    2015 Porsche Cayman S
    2012 BMW R1200GS, 1973 BMW R75/5


    "An intelligent man is sometimes forced to be drunk to spend time with his fools." -E. Hemingway

  3. #3
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    Stefan... I read your response and thought... well I might as well try it but I don't think it likely to work. It seems to. The pressure now jumps up to just below the 20 mark. Thanks much - I suspect I could have taken lots of other bits apart before finding this.

    So the next question... how much pressure should register while just operating the starter?

    I think I am problably good to go to the next step... hooking up the first and seeing if it will purr.

    Additional input eagerly sought.

  4. #4
    A little late to tell you now, but don't crank engine with cap off, the spark has no place to go! It is likely to arc somewhere, very hard on coils and CD boxes. To get oil pressure I remove all the spark plugs so the engine cranks easier without going against compression. Then remove the coil wire from the center of the distributor cap and ground it!. Now the spark voltage will go easily to ground and not possibly harm your coil /CD box. 20 psi cranking pressure is all you'll get, that's enough, go ahead and start it, watch oil pressure gauge to make sure pressure jumps up (hopefully to 60 + psi.) keep engine RPM up at 1500-2000 RPM for a few minutes, that really pumps the oil around and is also easier on the cam lobes, allowing the engine to idle right away puts a higher loading on the cam ramps.
    Early S Registry member #90
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  5. #5
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    As ed says + did you change the oil and filter?
    It takes a while to get oil throughout the circuit. A minute is not very long.
    I'd also have removed the plugs and squirted some marvel mystery oil down the holes before attempting a start.
    David

    '73 S Targa #0830 2.7 MFI rebuilt to RS specs

  6. #6
    Luft gekuhlt Bummler's Avatar
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    Even a blind hog finds an acorn once in a while...
    Stefan Josef Koch
    RGruppe #194/SRegistry #1063
    1969 Porsche 911E, Light Ivory (38 years and counting)
    2015 Porsche Cayman S
    2012 BMW R1200GS, 1973 BMW R75/5


    "An intelligent man is sometimes forced to be drunk to spend time with his fools." -E. Hemingway

  7. #7
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    So the new learning of grounding the coil wire is appreciated... I hope the time spent cranking with the cap removed will not generate further adventure.

    I will pick up a fresh can of gas tomorrow and let you know if I have music or silence.

    I plan to change the filter and oil after it has warmed up a bit. I don't know of a reason that the oil that has been in there for 2 years without running will be a problem since it was pretty new then. However, I also didn't know that cranking the engine with the cap removed was not a great idea. So if there is something about oil that has been there for a couple of years I should know before I start it... I have about 12 hours to learn it.

    I appreciate the info provided.

  8. #8
    Oil breaks down with both time, combustion byproducts and fuel dilution. It won't hurt you to start it up, but after an hour or so, change the oil to new.

    You will also find that you have oil in the heat exchangers. Expect white smoke at startup and anytime you put the engine under load, for a while after you start it.
    1966 911 #304065 Irischgruen

  9. #9
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    Update...

    Fuel lines back on, new batteries installed, fresh gas, let the pump prime for a minute or so.... and it started up in about 3 seconds. Very quickly.

    At 1500 RPM oil pressure at about 60, at 2000 RPM about 90 and a couple of light blips it goes to 100.

    How wonderful to here it purr again.

    It does need to get out and get very warm to clear off the oil from the minor leaks and what ever might be inside the exhaust. Then I hope to replace some of those old fuel and oil lines and do a whole lot of cleaning. Thanks for the advice & encouragement.

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