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Thread: The starting of the stripping process

  1. #11
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    Hi Merv,

    Any hints with the chemicals or exactly what bosch multi tool you got would be great.

    History on the car........i was away for work in las vegas and found it while i was there only 2 owners, last one was for the last 36 years.....it has a little bit of rust so got it for a good price........other than that its basically a running car, which i am obviously in the process of stripping and rebuilding.

    I am going to build a dolley....still thinking about it as might do a kind of a mix with a rotisserie style so i can remove the rust proofing the easy way rather than on my back looking up at the floor.

    John i will have to read your post again but was it hard to apply the rust protection stuff for the newly cleaned panels ? i do have an air compressor in the shed as well so just need to buy a cheap and easy spray gun to apply it.

    cheers

    clayton
    Clayton Shipard
    Sydney, NSW Australia
    1972 911 2.4S
    2000 Boxster S

  2. #12
    Senior Member Fishcop's Avatar
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    Hi Clayton

    You need to consider what process and products you want to use, and that will dictate how you use and apply them.

    I used a product from the States called Picklex20. I have not found a supplier here... I'm a big fan of working clean small areas at a time properly and then hitting the fresh clean metal with epoxy primer rather than etch primer. Epoxy sticks like sh!t to a blanket, but most importantly it is waterproof and the area can literally be left for years whilst you work on other areas (you can brush or roll it on - but spraying is more effective). It will later take high-build primer in the final body work stages.
    John Forcier
    EarlyS #1987
    1968 911 Race Car "Grun Hilda"
    1969 S/T interpretation "Blau Healer"
    Restoration Saga

  3. #13
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    Thanks John,

    I agree with you take small bites or areas at a time then sealing them, i am going to try and touch base with the panel beaters and see what they recommend, as well. Seeing as they will have to work with it after i have done the basic removal. i am happy to do the removing of the original rust protection and then pass it on to have the necessary rust then removed and new panels put in. At the moment the car will need :
    1) new rear shelf
    2) new rear seats right and left
    3) new kick panels below the seats
    4) touch up on both front guards
    5) rust removed from long hood front rim
    6) rust removed from rear hatch

    so a few areas need attention, but this is to be expected given the original rust protection and age of the car.

    If you dont mind sharing John, where did you get the product and how much do you need for a car ? I could re-read you post but thought i would be a little lazy and just ask you.
    Last edited by shipard; 11-18-2013 at 12:44 AM.
    Clayton Shipard
    Sydney, NSW Australia
    1972 911 2.4S
    2000 Boxster S

  4. #14
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    Ok so know i am getting a little ahead of myself but what are the best chemicals to use to remove the original rust protection on the underside of the floor pans. Thought i would try a little patch while the rear is in the air. Guessing it going to take awhile to get it all removed. Also from others experience what is are best tool to use,

    1) paint scrapers
    2) drill with steel wheel
    3) baby angle grinder with steel wheel
    4) bosch or similar multi tool with necessary attachments
    5) heat gun
    7) plenty of elbow grease
    6) all the above ?

    Thought i would try it while waiting for my brother to give me a hand to remove the engine and gearbox, looks like it will be a couple weeks before he can spare some time to help. He is an ex porsche mechanic which is a major help as i can also use his tools, he reckons it will only take about 2 hrs to remove gear box and engine.

    I will then need to focus a bit more on the dolley or rotisserie which will gives me best access to the floor pans etc.

    Just a thought has anyone heard of a dry ice blaster in Australia as apparently it works very well to remove the rust protection on the floor pans.
    Last edited by shipard; 11-21-2013 at 12:50 PM.
    Clayton Shipard
    Sydney, NSW Australia
    1972 911 2.4S
    2000 Boxster S

  5. #15
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    Had a chance to get a bit more done, the progress is easy at the moment i am sure once the removing of the major parts is done then the hard work will start.
    035.jpg 031.jpg 033.jpg 026.jpg 032.jpg
    Clayton Shipard
    Sydney, NSW Australia
    1972 911 2.4S
    2000 Boxster S

  6. #16
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    Hi All,

    I am about to pull out the front and rear glass, for those who have done this before any tips on the best way to do this ?

    cheers
    clayton
    Clayton Shipard
    Sydney, NSW Australia
    1972 911 2.4S
    2000 Boxster S

  7. #17
    Senior Member Fishcop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shipard View Post
    Hi All,

    I am about to pull out the front and rear glass, for those who have done this before any tips on the best way to do this ?

    cheers
    clayton
    Cut the seals completely away from the glass (don't try and save them).
    John Forcier
    EarlyS #1987
    1968 911 Race Car "Grun Hilda"
    1969 S/T interpretation "Blau Healer"
    Restoration Saga

  8. #18
    Senior Member 9er's Avatar
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    Hi Clayton,
    Nice work. Don't take this the wrong way, but aside from the issues you have identified there will be many more along the way. For me at the moment if I go a day and don't find a new section that needs repair I'm happy. DSC_0410.jpgDSC_0407.jpgDSC_0404.jpg

  9. #19
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    Hi Chris,

    Good to see your project is coming along, and i hope not to many more problems come your way.
    I am committed to the restore, so at the moment i am stripping the car back to a totally bare shell, covered with a rust protection like Picklex 20. Then see exactly what the damage is before getting the rust cut out professionally and the car resprayed.

    My journey maybe a long one but it a journey worth taking in my opinion.

    cheers
    clayton
    Clayton Shipard
    Sydney, NSW Australia
    1972 911 2.4S
    2000 Boxster S

  10. #20
    Junior Member
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    Sep 2013
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by shipard View Post
    Ok so know i am getting a little ahead of myself but what are the best chemicals to use to remove the original rust protection on the underside of the floor pans. Thought i would try a little patch while the rear is in the air. Guessing it going to take awhile to get it all removed. Also from others experience what is are best tool to use,

    1) paint scrapers
    2) drill with steel wheel
    3) baby angle grinder with steel wheel
    4) bosch or similar multi tool with necessary attachments
    5) heat gun
    7) plenty of elbow grease
    6) all the above ?

    Thought i would try it while waiting for my brother to give me a hand to remove the engine and gearbox, looks like it will be a couple weeks before he can spare some time to help. He is an ex porsche mechanic which is a major help as i can also use his tools, he reckons it will only take about 2 hrs to remove gear box and engine.

    I will then need to focus a bit more on the dolley or rotisserie which will gives me best access to the floor pans etc.

    Just a thought has anyone heard of a dry ice blaster in Australia as apparently it works very well to remove the rust protection on the floor pans.
    Your on it with the Dry Ice. You can get bulk Dry Ice (crushed) and put some in a strong garbage bag. You then place the "bag" onto the area you want to strip, leave it for a few minutes then scrape away. This has worked for me on newer cars very well. Keep your Dry Ice in a good esky and re-stock the bag as required. Last time I did a Porsche engine bay I used a good quality paint stripper - wear rubber gloves!!!!

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