I have a 1970 911. I've had motor out a few times and back in for various reasons. After about 45 miles since last install, the clutch pedal went to the floor. cable isnt broken. appears that the fork slipped off of the throw out bearing. Fork support bolt seems to still be in place. anyone experience this before? haven't tried yet but I am curious if I will have any luck trying to get fork on bearing without pulling and seperating motor and tranaxle. any one out there with experience?
Yes ,you can align the fork with the bearing with the motor and trans together , it's the only way . The hard part is doing it in the car .You may have to lower the engine . Is the spring behind the fork intact ?
Thanks for the reply. right. i wasnt very clear. didnt mean seperate motor and transaxle, althought I said it. just didnt know if i could do it while in car. ill have too do some exploring to see if spring is still in place. it should be but... i replaced it and the bolt not long ago.
any ideas why the slip off? it does seem to me that the design is not extremely robust to keep all in place. thanks again!
If the spring is in place and installed in the right order the fork should never slip out, at least I've never seen one to do that.
Early S Registry member #90
R Gruppe member #138
Fort Worth Tx.
Are you sure it isn't the pin in the pedal cluster? Same symptoms appear. The pin can shear and you can't see it. Then the pedal goes to the floor. Lot cheaper/easier to pull the cluster and check it than to drop the engine. MIght save you some grief, given Ed Mayo's comment above.
jhtaylor
santa barbara
74 911 coupe. 2.7 redone by Competition Engineering; ported to 36mm, shuffle-pinned, boat-tailed, Elgin mod-S cams, J&E 9.5's, PMO's.
73 Targa (much beloved, sold and off to a fine new home in San Francisco)
good comments. to be honest I was not sure of the proper orientation of the spring... memory tells me that it is under pivot bolt and oriented so that "tip" of spring is against fork. did I get it right? any pointers on this would be helpful! I was able to get fork back on bearing without any problems. I did not have to drop motor. went together easy. clutch is adjusted properly. weirdness...
ball pin, I always use a new one unless I know it is low miles
I use the 1970 system on my race car. Really is a good setup.
I did experience your failure one race weekend and the problem was diagnosed as the metal ball pin had backed out and I lost tension on the fork resulting in the fork slipping off the bearing.
Even though I use red Loctite to install the ball pin, it still backed out! Worth a look.
It seems to me if the bolt is still in the fork, that whole assembly in the bell housing might be right, especially if you were able to drive around 45 miles. My guess is the pin holding on the clutch pedal at the pedal cluster sheared clean off, or that the clutch pedal sheared clear from within the housing, and you'll need a welding job. I'd take out the pedal cluster and consider updating all those bushing to copper if you haven't already. Before assembling the whole thing back together again, check the cluster in its entirely. The accelerator pedal can have similar problems and it goes to the floor and if you car is in gear, the entire thing goes wide open.
E911SR #2107
69 911T/S SWT 3.2L
RG #384
I installed a new ball pin prior to motor install.
Please note CidTito that i reinstalled fork on TO bearing and all is good; for now...
My gut feeling is that when i installed motor it was a very tight fit to get clutch cable reinstalled. I used a prybar to depress clutch fork to get cable in. my guess is that I upset alignment with TO bearing and fork during the process. Thanks for all the comments
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