Spring plate removal

[rick b]

Hi to all,

The struggle continues. 1970 911 E. I am removing the rear suspension. I have the shocks off, the emergency brake disconnected, the spring plate disconnected from the hub, and the banana arm and hub on the ground. Torsion bar cover removed. Torsion bar hole open in the sheet metal. However, the spring plate refuses to let go of the torsion bar. What is the secret here? I have about destroyed the rubber bushing on the outside of the spring plate. (is this the right term for the flat bar that goes from the torsion bar to the hub?) The Haynes manual is not any help in this. The parts manual shows this piece #25 as a "strut" with the rubber bushing attached. Maybe I should not have destroyed the one on the car???? It looked like it needed to be replaced.

So, how does a person get the strut / spring plate un-stuck from the torsion bar?





Thanks,

Rick

[sithot]

You have to end the love affair the spring plate is having with the torsion bar. Corrosion would appear to be the issue if the door lock post is any indication of the car's over all condition.
Time for copious amounts of Kroil or similar. I reckon you could punch the outer cover and hit the torsion bar with a drift.

[jpnovak]

Assuming it is really stuck...

You can clamp a vice grip on the torsion bar and pry against the inboard edge of the spring plate and your vice grip. Be aware, this will damage the paint on the torsion bar and it will need to be refinished. It will not put marks in the hardened spring steel of the torsion bar.

Another method is to drill a hole in the end of the spring plate. Then you can put some penetrating fluid in the splined end. Then use a drift through the drilled hole and pound out the torsion bar. Once free you have to weld up the hole and finish it.

I also like to heat the outboard end of the spring plate where the splines are. Get it good and hot. Don't worry about paint or finish at this point That will be corrected once off the car as part of your bushing replacement.

To remove the rubber bushings easily. Heat the inside of the spring plate with a torch (preferrably Oxy-acetylene). MAPP and propane will also work but take longer. When you hear a sizzle, just grab the bushing with a gloved hand and spin it off. Do this in a well ventilated area.

[sithot]

Sage advice. Have fun.

[MTemp]

Not uncommon on cars that have been sat a while.

Best option I have found (especially if you want to re-use the torsion bar) is to carefully drill a small hole (5mm or so) in the outer cover as suggested above. The end that is sticking out through the hole in the wing has a convex cover pressed into the end. If you clean around the edge and drill the hole you can usually winkle it out. Take care not to keep drilling into the end of the t-bar!

Anyway once it's out then spray your chosen material into the end and leave it to soak in, then support the spring plate as best you can with blocks of wood etc and whale away with a brass drift and a BFH until the t-bar gives up and disappears into the hole from which you just dragged it.

Given you've removed most of the outer bush then heating the outside with a torch will help ….. although you will set fire to the remnants and the smoke generated is awful.

Mick

Edit: Oops not quick enough ^^^^^- but at least the advice was the same!

[jpnovak]

I admit that recently I worked on a car that required a combination of all methods to free the passenger side spring plate. It was the most stuck I have ever experienced.

"whale away with a brass drift and a BFH until the t-bar gives up and disappears into the hole from which you just dragged it."

This was very well expressed. Its funny to hear that loud clang as the torsion bar flies into the tube and rings against the inner stop. Don't be afraid to hit it hard. You will need to.

[sithot]

"Piling on" is allowed.

[ESully]

Mine was similar. I drilled a small hole in the cap on the end and popped off the cap. Then a little PB Blaster followed by a few good hits with a drift pin. I mig welded the small hole in the cap I had drilled, and all was well.

[gregk1]

just did this Saturday i just drilled a 3/8 hole in the cap and left cap in used a drift punch and a hammer came right out plugged the hole with silicone after the reassembly and done

[rick b]

Thanks to all for the advice. I achieved success with the driver's side by drilling the hole, squirting in PB Blaster every several days for about a month, then whacking the bar through the hole with a drift and a BFH. Nothing is easy on a 43 year old car. Rick