Need help, chain tensioners

[Norm01]

Read many threads on the chain tensioners and I still would like to clarify a few things. First off, this is a 68S engine. I do not wish to go to pressure fed tensioners as I will neither track the car or put a lot of miles on it, I am comfortable with later style tensioners and collars. So here goes, what is the difference between the 930.105.501.0R and the 930.105.53.00 tensioners. In the picks below, are these ramps older style and should all be replaced, also according to Dempsey's book it would seem my brown ramp is installed in the upper location rather than the lower on the right side. I see a set of 6 ramps is only $40 or so. Next up sprocket supports, I seem to have the old style and the new ones are over $200 each. Is it really necessary to change these, if I remove and they inspect good would you keep them? I think that's it for now.

[edmayo]

First, you have at least one rubber chain guide shown on the 1-2-3 side, that has to GO! Those would break up and get caught between the chain and sprocket,,,,,need I say more?? Secondly the ramp on the 4-5-6 side is the old, old style. While they weren't known to break I would still change ALL the guides. I would absolutely upgrade to the wider spaced idler arms. Those may have been a cause of many tensioner failures by not centering the load on the tensioner,,,also the new ones are bronze bushed, the old were steel and may start galling. Lastly, like you I don't like the exposed oil lines of the pressure fed tensioners. I disassemble the tensioner, use a rebuild kit, and fill with 60 wt oil, then use the guards you have.

[Norm01]

First, you have at least one rubber chain guide shown on the 1-2-3 side, that has to GO! Those would break up and get caught between the chain and sprocket,,,,,need I say more?? Secondly the ramp on the 4-5-6 side is the old, old style. While they weren't known to break I would still change ALL the guides. I would absolutely upgrade to the wider spaced idler arms. Those may have been a cause of many tensioner failures by not centering the load on the tensioner,,,also the new ones are bronze bushed, the old were steel and may start galling. Lastly, like you I don't like the exposed oil lines of the pressure fed tensioners. I disassemble the tensioner, use a rebuild kit, and fill with 60 wt oil, then use the guards you have.

Thanks Ed, appreciate the help. Any idea where to get a rebuild kit for 930.105.501.0R. I've looked at Stoddard and Pelican and can't seem to find. I guess the 501's are earlier than the 053's?

[edmayo]

I believe all the rebuild kits (Porsche ones) are the same. We've never ordered by the number on the tensioners.

[Norm01]

Ed, would the 501 be more prone to failure than the 053. Are they basically the same and no worth upgrading?

[edmayo]

As far as I can tell once you use a rebuild kit and 60 wt. oil that's all that matters.

[Richy]

Ed's advice is spot on . Your chain tensioners are compatible with the new style sprocket supports , so I think it's a no brainer to upgrade .

[gled49]

I would add again, that the idler sprocket look like the non bushed kind and should be up graded. Gled

[Norm01]

I would add again, that the idler sprocket look like the non bushed kind and should be up graded. Gled

Gled, are you talking about the arm, don't tell me the sprocket also has an update and I need to change that too.

[gled49]

I am talking about the idler chain wheel. I have had the non bushed chain wheels seize. When you look at the idler chain wheel axle, you will probably change it as well.