I just removed the original Koni struts from my 69 912 to remove the guts and install new Koni inserts. I had read some good posts here regarding the design of the ball joint connection to the strut. After careful measuring, I think the original intent was to use a shoulder bolt to help retain the ball joint along with the clamping. After much searching and several phone calls, the only bolt readily available is shown below, along with the original bolt. This shoulder bolt fits snuggly in the too large 11mm opening for the factory 10mm bolt. Although this particular shoulder is too long, it was the only one I could find to test my theory. I also did not have a loose ball joint for a bench test, but measurements indicate the shoulder would fit the round cutout in the ball joint. There are two problems with using a shoulder bolt. First, by strut design, it will only reach the center of the ball pin cut out. Second, and the killer of using it is it is very difficult to get the needed alignment of the pin in the strut. Vertical alignment is not a problem, but rotational, particularly on the car is almost impossible as there is no way to grasp the pin to turn it once aligned vertcally. It may be possible if the strut is on a bench and the ball joint installed there. I think that probably prototype or pilot assembly for the 69 model pointed out the assembly problem so it was decided to use a plain 10mm bolt which could be worked into the cutout. There is a catalog bolt that should work, but would have to be special ordered. I am willing to send this bolt to someone who has a spare strut and ball joint to try to assemble on a bench to confirm my theory. I think that is why the later wedge pin was used, so that it can self align with the ball joint pin. A guide tool with a rounded 11mm nose might work to prealign the 69-71 pin so a shoulder bolt could be used.

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