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Thread: Wrong place to jack up the front?

  1. #1

    Wrong place to jack up the front?

    Came across this pic on ebay showing a 71T being jacked up on the front pan. I had often wished there was a way to get both wheels off the ground when doing ride height adjustments on my old SC. Now that I have my 70T I assume it's still best to put jacks under the a-arm attachments, right?

    Ulrich
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  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by ulrichd
    Came across this pic on ebay showing a 71T being jacked up on the front pan. I had often wished there was a way to get both wheels off the ground when doing ride height adjustments on my old SC. Now that I have my 70T I assume it's still best to put jacks under the a-arm attachments, right?
    Ulrich
    I jack my '68 up this way, but I put a length of 2x4 along the front pan to spread the load a bit.

    This method probably will be a bit crunchy and unsafe if your front pan is rusty too.....

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Fritter
    I jack my '68 up this way, but I put a length of 2x4 along the front pan to spread the load a bit.

    This method probably will be a bit crunchy and unsafe if your front pan is rusty too.....
    I do the same, no problems.

  4. #4
    If you even THINK that your front pan MAY have SOME rust do NOT use this method. It is unbelievable what undercoating hides.
    Erik

    Early S # 1107

    All my german equipment is either busted or sold...sigh....in the market for a decent non-sunroof tub!!!!!!! Help me get back to autocrossing!!!

  5. #5
    Moderator Chuck Miller's Avatar
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    Ulrich,

    I've infrequently jacked the '73 from that point for the last 18+ years with no problem.....

    However, as was said, ya got'a know you have a completely sound, no issue, front end...

    Hope this helps...

    Cheers,
    Chuck Miller
    Creative Advisor/Message Board Moderator - Early 911S Registry #109
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  6. #6

    fwiw

    that is a box beam.
    and the toe hook reinforces it.
    and the front end is on the lighter side.
    so it think its okay too.
    ditto on checking for rust though.
    i don't use a 2x4 .
    bob
    bob moglia
    '72 E sunroof coupe

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by robmog
    that is a box beam.
    and the toe hook reinforces it.
    and the front end is on the lighter side.
    so it think its okay too.
    ditto on checking for rust though.
    i don't use a 2x4 .
    bob
    Slight correction. That box beam could be 35 years old or more. 40% of 2400 lbs. is 960 lbs. A lightweight front end is still 800 lbs.

    Does that small lift area give you confidence that:
    1. the jack won't punch through the sheet metal?
    2. the jack will keep said chassis off of your body part in case the above happens?

    For added assurance, use a 2x4 that's long enough to span the two torsion bar housings. The load spread is more effective. Follow up with jack stands directly under the torsion bar tubes and stud before inserting any part of your body underneath.

    Next time I'm under the front end, I'll take some pics of my lift method. Install spacer(s) to span the space between the crossmember and the sheet metal cover below it, effectively making the cover a part of the crossmember. I used 1" wide flat aluminum bar stock.

    I lift from the side with a hydraulic scissors jack to allow room to roll the floor jack under the chassis. Position the floor jack under the cover and lift; same as lifting at the front crossmember. A target area painted on the crossmember cover ensures repeatability.

    Sherwood

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